DIY Hardwood Flooring Installation Basics

Hardwood flooring is without a doubt one of the best improvements anyone can put in their homes and still continue to reap benefits long after one has retired. If you intend to keep an ancestral home or at least live on that particular property for the next 10 years or more, then consider this little DIY project that will add significant value to your house and even more significant value to your relationships. Hardwood flooring is both durable and enduring. It can be re-sanded and refinished, at least once for engineered hardwood, and several times for solid hardwood flooring to make it appear as if its new. This saves the homeowners both money and wood resources making it an environmentally sound choice.

The first key is of course get the right hardwood flooring material that would flatter your living space and at the same time meet your needs. Some quick tips to get the right amount of hardwood flooring you need: first, measure the length and width of the room and multiply both quantities to get the square footage and then add 10% to the resulting product to allow for errors, waste and future repair.

Keep in mind that when the hardwood flooring planks are delivered to you, you are not to install them the following day. Read on to see how to prepare the flooring material and the subfloor before installation and what skills and tools one would need to successfully execute a DIY hardwood flooring installation project.

Materials and Tools

After you’ve calculated the costs of your flooring materials, before placing your order make sure that you have enough to cover for the purchase and rental of tools and equipment for your installation project, otherwise should you opt for flooring professionals to do the job, be sure to do basic search to identify the skills and customer feedback for each to make sure you’ll get quality service as the project is costly.

However, if you think you are fairly skilled and experienced to pull this thing off, then read on to get some important insights.

Carefully read manufacturer’s instructions for more specific directions about the flooring product and be sure you comply with the building code in your respective area. Keep in mind that the instructions here are common practices only and might not meet the exact manufacturer requirements for specific flooring products.

After the flooring products have been delivered, be sure to open the boxes and carefully examine each hardwood plank for any visual or material defect. Also it is very important to leave the hardwood planks in the room where it would be installed for at least 72 hours to let it acclimate to room’s natural humidity and temperature and give it time to naturally shrink or expand prior to installation.

Lastly, consider the mode of installation best suited for the flooring product of your choice – if it is glued application or a nailed-down installation as site preparation and tools needed might slightly vary depending on the manner of installation.

Common installation tools are:

  • hardwood flooring planks
  • underlay and vapor barrier (depends on product requirements)
  • adhesive (as recommended by manufacturer, for glued-down installation)
  • spacers
  • pneumatic nailer (for nailed-down installation)
  • drill and drill bits
  • hammer
  • nail set, nails and finish nails
  • wood putty (same shade as the flooring planks, for nailed-down installation)
  • saws – circular, mite, table or hand saw
  • prybar
  • dead blow hammer and tapping block
  • pencil
  • tape measure
  • utility knife
  • dust mask and knee pads

DIY Flooring Installation Vinyl Flooring Essentials

Resilient vinyl flooring is low on maintenance and costs just a fraction of granite and marble tiles but can look just as lovely. Also compared to natural stone tiles that will definitely require the advanced skills of a professional to install, vinyl flooring installation can be one great DIY project.

Today, we continue with our DIY flooring installation series and we’ll give you some points to consider should you decide to go out, buy vinyl and make the installation a weekend project.

Let’s answer the basic questions first:

How much vinyl to buy?

Getting the exact measurements or perhaps the closest possible estimate of the size of the room you plan to install vinyl flooring on is perhaps the most important thing to accomplish in the entire project.

To do this, get the length and the width of the room then multiply the same to get the area of the room. Be sure to add at least 10 percent extra to have allowance for errors.

Measurement may slightly vary depending on the type of vinyl flooring product you’ll buy. There are different types of vinyl based flooring solutions available in the market – sheet, tile or planks.

What are the tools I need?

As it is with the quantity of the flooring products you need, tools do-it-yourselfers would need differ depending on the method of installation they intend to use.

In general however, you will need the following:

  • carpenter’s square
  • gloves
  • masking tape
  • measuring tape
  • pencil or felt-tipped pen
  • shears or snips
  • utility knife

There are 3 ways of installing vinyl flooring (depending of course on the type of vinyl flooring you’ll use):

  1. Felt-Backed Vinyl Sheet – in this type of installation, vinyl flooring is installed either with spread adhesive, completely gluing it to the subfloor or by perimeter adhesive, securing the vinyl around the perimeter and seams. This type of installation requires the following tools:
  • 100-pound roller/rolling pin
  • floor pattern or craft paper
  • full spread adhesive (as recommended by manufacturer)
  • notched trowel
  • pair of scissors
  • seam sealer kit
  • staple gun
  1. Vinyl Flooring Tiles and Planks – these can be installed in different ways: either secured to a floor with pre-applied adhesive (peel-and-stick) or tab, spray or also full spread adhesive. These types are normally installed with the following tools:
  • chalk line
  • manufacturer recommended adhesive (spray, full spread, tabs)
  • notched trowel
  • vinyl tile/plank cutter
  1. Fiberglass Vinyl Sheet – installed as a loose lay or floating floor. It can also be installed semi-loose lay – secured only in specific points or full spread. Tools and materials needed to install this type of vinyl are:
  • acrylic double-sided tape or pressure sensitive adhesive
  • floor pattern or craft paper
  • notched trowel or paint roller
  • scissors

How to prepare the subfloors?

  1. Remove any furnishings in the room, including floor trim mouldings or baseboards if any. Carefully remove them using a pry bar if you plan to re-install them later on.
  1. If you need to repair or lay down a subfloor-graded plywood or OSB board as subfloor aside from the recommended underlayment, be sure to remove and trim door(s), door jambs and casings to fit the flooring’s height adjustment.
  1. Make sure floor joists are sturdy. Repair and reinforce when needed.
  1. Also ensure that the subfloor’s surface is even.

  1. Check the moisture levels in the room and see if it is within the manufacturer’s recommended range. If not, be sure to see professional advice before proceeding with the project.
  1. Remove old flooring and clean the subfloor thoroughly. Make sure no traces of adhesive, wax, nails or dirt is left as this can affect the quality of our vinyl flooring.
  1. Let the vinyl flooring acclimate in the room. See manufacturer’s recommendations.
  1. Read manufacturer’s instructions and local building codes before starting with the project.

DIY Flooring Installation the Basics

Given the current economic difficulties experienced all around the globe, it’s only wise that we take all the necessary steps to save on everything and anything we can save on. This is of course without compromising the quality of the product or service we want to get. The same is true with flooring.

In an earlier series of posts we gave tips on how to buy the perfect flooring materials that’ll meet your professional or domestic needs, here we give you simple instructions and general practices in doing the installation yourself.

Whatever flooring product you choose, whether its laminate flooring, hardwood, porcelain and ceramic tiles, natural stones like granite, slate or marble, carpet tiles or other environmentally sound ones like glass, linoleum, bamboo or cork the most important thing is to make sure that the subfloor is prepared, protected from moisture and complete with the appropriate underlay or vapor barriers, recommended by the manufacturers of your product of choice.

How to prepare the subfloor and protect the backside of your flooring will vary depending on the product you intend to use as well as the type of installation recommended for said products.

Below are the basics in do it yourself installation of different flooring materials:

  • DIY Laminate Flooring Installation
  • DIY Hardwood Flooring Installation on Wood Subfloor
  • DIY Hardwood Flooring Installation on Concrete Subfloor
  • DIY Flooring Installation: Ceramic and Porcelain Tile
  • DIY Cork Flooring Installation
  • DIY Bamboo Flooring Installation
  • DIY Vinyl Flooring Installation
  • DIY Linoleum Flooring Installation

We have also included some basic steps in preparing the subfloor for different types of installation:

  • DIY Flooring Installation: Laminate Flooring Prep
  • DIY Hardwood Flooring Installation Wood Subfloor Preparation
  • DIY Hardwood Flooring Installation Concrete Subfloor Preparation
  • DIY Flooring Installation: Preparing for Ceramic & Porcelain Tiles
  • DIY Flooring Installation: Bamboo Flooring Prep
  • DIY Flooring Installation: Vinyl Flooring Essentials
  • DIY Flooring Installation: Linoleum Prep
  • DIY Carpet Tiles Flooring Installation Prep

We hope you find these resources helpful for your DIY flooring projects.

DIY Flooring Installation Preparing for Ceramic Porcelain Tiles

Recommended for high traffic areas, ceramic and porcelain tile flooring is a great addition to your home. An excellent flooring material since they handle moisture well, durable and also comes in various styles, sizes and colors that would complement, highlight and accentuate any place in your property.

Planning to install ceramic or porcelain tiles DIY? Read these basic steps in preparing for installation. Keep in mind this requires some skills and certain tools so better think twice if you’re really gonna do it or leave it to the more trained hands of flooring professionals.

Speaking of tools, here are the ones needed in preparing the subfloor:

  • cement backerboard (underlayment)
  • polymer modified thin-set mortar
  • notched trowel
  • galvanized roofing nails or corrosion resistant screws
  • drill and drill bits
  • saw
  • alkali-resistant cement board seam tape
  • utility knife
  • tape measure
  • pencil
  • chalk line and square
  • knee pads, gloves and safety glasses
  • patch and leveler
  • tile spacers
  • ceramic or porcelain flooring tiles

So how many ceramic or laminate flooring tiles do you need? To get an estimate measure the length and width of the room where you plan to install the flooring tiles multiply both to get the square footage you need. Finally, add 10-20 per cent more to cover for mistakes and replacements. Some stores have calculators included in their websites.

Remember these criteria that should be met before porcelain or ceramic tile flooring is installed: the subfloor should be 1) uniform and level; 2) in appropriate thickness; and 3) in overall good condition. Before proceeding with the preparation, it won’t hurt to check out the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you take all the necessary steps. Also check out the building codes in your area to avoid any inconvenience.

Next, checkout your subfloor. some materials, like vinyl are suitable for tile installation others however would have to be removed. Baseboards and trips would also need to be removed. Put the cement backerboard and a piece of tile against the door casing and mark their height. Clear out that space to make sure the flooring would fit. Be sure to cut the door too.

Another thing to consider is the resulting height of the flooring after installation. This will be crucial if you are planning to install the tile in the bathroom as the added elevation increases the chances of water spilling out. Keep in mind the height of furniture and other stuff as it is possible that the resulting floor will be more or less an inch higher.

Check if the subfloor is level before laying down the backerboards to make sure tiles are protected from unnecessary pressure. Use the patch and leveler following product directions. Be sure to allow the right time for the leveling compound to cure. Another popular technique used to ensure that the subfloor is level is by screeding. This application was initially used for commercial installations but are now also widely used in homes. Here, when there are high spots, the rest of the flooring is then raised to make it level and even.

When the subfloor is level, we are now ready to install our backerboards that will serve as a foundation for our ceramic or porcelain tile flooring. Apply the thin-set mortar on the subfloor, make sure to spread them in sections and its best to begin doing so in a corner. Lay down the backerboard and secure it in place with using corrosion resistant screws.

If you need to cut the board, simply score it with the utility knife and snap it. Be sure to cut it on the backside after it snaps to make sure you don’t damage the mesh.

Continue with the thin-set application and backerboard layout until you have covered the entire room.

Cover the joints with cement board seam tape and apply mortar.

The next step is to mark our guidelines to ensure that the layout is square all throughout. To do this, mark the center of the 2 opposing walls in the room and snap a chalk line. Do the same for the adjacent walls to form a cross. Check if their intersection is square. This would be sufficient if the room is small. You can now layout the tiles, following the guidelines to see how they would fit, using tile spaces in between to make sure the distance is even. Don’t forget to leave the recommended expansion gap beside walls and cabinets. This is known as the dry layout.

If the dry layout would leave a distance less than half the tile’s with at the end on one wall, move the layout by first adjusting the guidelines and leaving equal distance on each side.

For larger areas, it is ideal to draw a grid of 3-foot squares across the room to make sure the layout will be even all throughout. Working in smaller section will make it more accurate and easier to make adjustments when needed.

With the correct guidelines and a dry layout, we were able to see how the installation would look like. We are now ready to install the ceramic or porcelain tile flooring

DIY Flooring Installation Linoleum Prep

Linoleum flooring has made a comeback! Contrary to popular belief that they belong to some rundown buildings and establishments no longer used or homes that have not been lived in in ages, with the rise of consciousness for more environmentally sound flooring products, linoleum has received some well-deserved and overdue attention it has not seen in recent years.

As it is with other flooring process, success depends on subfloor preparation and choosing the right flooring material. As we’ve mentioned earlier, linoleum has evolved into something not only trendier but also in form. We still have the classic linoleum sheets and the newer generation of linoleum tiles and floating ones.

It can be argued that linoleum is perhaps the greenest flooring product available in the market to date. It is manufactured from purely natural materials invented in the 1940s. These same materials and processes are still used today.

To continue with our DIY flooring installation, the next step is to identify the manner to install your new flooring. This of course will vary depending on the type of linoleum flooring you’d use. Sheet and linoleum tiles are usually installed using spread or full adhesive while floating linoleum normally uses the common click and lock technology.

The tools needed will also depend on the type of installation the manufacturers recommend for different linoleum flooring products. Commonly used for installing linoleum sheets are:

  • Carpenter’s square

  • Gloves

  • Masking tape

  • Measuring tape

  • Half–moon knife and guide plate

  • Pencil and/or felt–tipped pen

  • Respirator or mask

  • Scribers, snips and/or shears

  • Straight edge

  • Utility knife, edge trimmer and/or trimming knives (under, over, straight)

While linoleum tile installation would require the following:

  • 100 lb roller and/or rolling pin

  • Chalk line

  • Floor pattern or craft paper

  • Full–spread adhesive

  • Notched trowel

  • Scissors

  • Seam–sealer kit or seam welder

  • Staple gun

Finally, click and lock linoleum flooring would require the use of the following tools:

  • Hammer

  • Handsaw

  • Keyhole, jig or power saw

  • Tapping block

  • Tension iron or pry bar

  • Wedges

Subfloor Preparation

Before proceeding with site preparation, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you are aware of any special steps you need to take before installation. Also check building codes before scratching the surface of your old flooring.

  • Remove all furniture and equipment before the installation. If you’ll be using wood subfloors or an underlayment is required, make sure to account for the ending thickness of the new floor and be sure to trim door, door casings and door jambs.

  • You also need to remove wall trims and mouldings you can either reuse or discard them but you need them out of the way in order to properly install the new flooring.
  • Remove old floor covering. If you plan on reusing the old flooring material, then carefully remove them and keep damage to a minimum.
  • After removing the old flooring, thoroughly clean the subfloor and ensure that it is structurally sound, level and free from water or moisture.
  • Some products might require installing plywood for underlayment, be sure to get an underlayment-grade plywood or a material specifically recommended for the product.
  • If you’ll be installing the linoleum over concrete subfloor, carefully follow manufacturer’s directions on whether or not the moisture in the room is appropriate with the product you have and what to do to fix it if its not.
  • The same is true for below-grade installation, this might require laying down a moisture barrier.
  • Leveling concrete floors might require using grinders and a leveling compound, be sure to read and follow manufacturer’s instructions when using them.
  • Lastly, always use safety and protective gear especially when handling tools and equipment.

DIY Flooring Installation Laminate Flooring Prep

We’ve already written some posts on laminate flooring – what they are, how to choose the perfect laminates, gave a buying guide as well as how to clean and handle stains in them.

You may think that you’ve got everything you need and know absolutely everything you need to know about them and you’re probably about to go online or hit the nearest retailer in your area to get boxes and boxes of your perfect laminate flooring of choice…but you thought of something and stopped on your tracks: you realized you don’t know anyone who can install it and you’re not sure if you can do it.

Well we today, we give you the basics on how to install laminate flooring.

The most important thing to do before you begin is to make sure you have all the materials and tools you need. Common tools are:

  • saw (miter and table saw);
  • pencil
  • safety glasses/goggles
  • knee pads
  • flooring installation kit (with pull bar and spacers)
  • hammer
  • tapping bar
  • tape measure
  • moisture barrier/vapor layer (especially for concrete subfloors)
  • adhesive (depends on laminate flooring brand)
  • underpads (depends on the brand as some have pre-attached ones)
  • accessories (moldings, trims, stair noses)
  • laminate flooring boards (with 5-10% allowance for waste, replacement or repairs in the future)

The next step is also critical. No matter what brand, with or without installation experience, one should always, always read the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

The succeeding steps are general processes observed and might slightly vary depending on the type of laminate flooring you are using and the specific set of instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Preparation

Site preparation. First remove the old flooring and thoroughly clean the surface to get rid of unnecessary debris, dirt and all other residue from the previous flooring product.

Carefully examine the area and check for needed repairs. Make sure that the subfloor’s surface is leveled by using a standard straight edge laser. Should there be uneven surfaces then simply apply thinset mortar to fill it. Its available in most hardware stores.

Don’t forget to measure the resulting flooring and make the necessary adjustments with your doors, trimmings, stairs and other transitions.

Consider also the subfloor material. For wood surfaces, as long as the subfloor is in good condition and shows no sign of damage – like decay or cupping, then you can go right ahead and put the laminate flooring in. The case is different with concrete though.

Moisture or vapor barriers are necessary for concrete subfloors to prevent moisture from seeping in from beneath which might cause damage to the flooring.

Also check the laminate flooring. Some products already have pre-attached underpads while others might require you to lay a separate sheet. Underpads provide a noise reduction for laminate flooring.

If you’re doing a major home makeover then ensure that all other jobs like carpentry and painting are all done before installing the laminate flooring to make sure that the surface are protected from unwanted scratches and stains. What’s the point of having a new floor when it’ll be less than perfect even before you get the chance to enjoy it?

Product Preparation. This is rather pretty simple. First make sure to examine each board or plank for any damage that might affect installation. Also scrutinize tongues and grooves to make sure they are whole and free from chips that could make locking them together hard or would leave seams visible or else gaps.

After checking, carefully arrange the laminate flooring on the room where it’ll be installed to allow it to acclimate. Acclimation simply means letting the product adapt to the temperature in the room thereby letting it expand or contract naturally for at least 72 hours.

There you have it, the initial steps in preparing for a DIY laminate flooring installation. Watch out for part 2 for the step by step process and more tips.

DIY Flooring Installation Carpet Tiles

Typically manageable, carpet tiles are easy to install and even easier to maintain. Since modern carpet tiles are meant to be installed without the need to use adhesives, when a particular tile gets damaged or stained, it can easily be removed to be washed or in cases of permanent stains or damage, replaced.

After preparing our subfloor, we are now ready to install our carpet tiles in an economical DIY fashion.

To make sure you get everything right, a plan and having the right tools can’t possibly hurt and would most likely save you time and energy, especially if you decided to undertake the installation yourself.

The basic tools you’ll need for this installation project are:

  • carpet tiles
  • recommended adhesive, if any
  • utility knife
  • straight hedge
  • tape measure
  • chalk line
  • pencil

After the carpet tiles have been delivered, allow some time for it to acclimate for at least 24 hours before using them as the tiles could either contract or expand depending on the room temperature.

Using the tape measure, find the center of the room, snap a chalk line on the center of each wall to form 4 quadrants. This will make sure the dry layout of the carpet tiles will be straight and you can comfortable mix and match the tiles to form a certain pattern you like.

Once you have the pattern or design you wanted for the room, you can now securely lay down the tiles, either by locking them together or using adhesive, as directed by manufacturers.

You may need to cut the tiles when you reach the edge of the room to make it fit, along corners or curves from permanent fixtures. To do this, make sure you have the correct measurements or shape and slowly cut the tile using a utility knife. For curves or other irregular shapes, using a pattern or paper template is also recommended.

Finish up by covering the edges using baseboards or trims and installing appropriate transition pieces whenever necessary.

DIY Flooring Installation Bamboo Flooring Prep

Bamboo is one of the most versatile and resilient materials out there with usage ranging from fashion, food, medicine and construction among others. From centuries of use, bamboo has continuously proven its reliability.

Perhaps the greatest selling point and the reason why more and more people prefer bamboo flooring is because it is both an environmentally friendly and highly sustainable material, however keep in mind that not all bamboo flooring are created equal. You may want to double check the manufacturing and delivery processes, if they comply with environmental standards.

When you go out to buy bamboo flooring, be sure to add about 5-10 percent of the material to allow room for errors as well as spared should there be a need to replace some planks or boards in the future.

After the planks have been delivered, don’t get ahead of yourself and immediately install them. Get all the flooring materials in the room where they will be installed and lift them of the boxes or at least leave them open so that the planks can acclimate with the room’s natural conditions. The acclimation process is normally around 72 hours, but its best to see manufacturer’s instructions and follow that.

Subfloor:

Again, as with any flooring material, the success of your DIY installation project will largely depend on the subfloor’s preparation. Preparation will vary depending on the type of subfloor you have and the type of installation you have in mind.

In general, the subfloor must be level, structurally sound, clean and dry.

The level of the subfloor will affect not only the appearance of the bamboo flooring but also its durability. Its important to have a structurally sound subfloor to support the bamboo flooring. By structurally sound, we mean no squeaking floorboards or shaky joists. All repairs must be done before flooring planks are attached. The subfloor must be pristinely clean, thoroughly swept free from nails, staples or adhesive residue. Lastly and most important, the subfloor must be dry with a recommended room temperature of 60-70º and a humidity of about 40-60%.

Tools:

The following tools will be needed for a DIY bamboo flooring installation:

  • measuring tape
  • hand saw or power saw
  • tapping block
  • wood or plastic spacers
  • pry bar
  • hammer
  • chalk line
  • pencil
  • recommended underlayment/moisture barrier
  • bamboo flooring

As we mentioned earlier, there are several ways to install bamboo flooring and these types of installations will require different tools:

  1. Nailed-down Installation – for this type you’ll also need:
  • the appropriate nailer/nail gun
  • nail application chart
  1. Glued-down Installation – for this type, we need:
  • recommended flooring adhesive
  • trowel
  • pail, optional for mixing adhesive
  1. Floating Installation – 
  • poly film foam or other manufacturer recommended product
  • PVAC glue
  • poly or duct tape

Some Final Pre-installation Reminders:

  • Be sure to remove existing trims, mouldings and baseboards to the room.
  • Also trim doorways, door and passage ways
  • Remember to examine each piece of flooring for defects and use planks from different boxes to give a unique look.
  • Remember to use the tapping block to securely lock each plank and gently pull with a pry bar.
  • Begin on the longest side of the room and continue on that line.
  • Remember to keep allowance for expansion.

DIY Floor Installation Ceramic and Porcelain Tile

value of a home. More importantly, it is suitable to almost any kind of environmental conditions and would work well with other flooring solutions.

Tools and equipment needed to do the installation will depend on the ceramic or porcelain tile flooring product you intend to use. However, some of the common and basic materials are:

  • flooring tiles, remember to add at least 10% allowance for mistakes/waste
  • thinset mortar or mastic, as recommended for the product
  • buckets and mixing paddle
  • drill and drill bits
  • notched trowel
  • sponge
  • tape measure
  • pencil and square
  • tile spacers
  • lever
  • rubber mallet
  • tile cutter or saw
  • rubber work gloves
  • kneepads
  • safety glasses
  • mouldings, transitions or tile metal strips as needed

Before proceeding with the project, be sure that the subfloor have been prepared to perfection, meaning it is generally in good condition: leveled and is in the proper thickness. Make sure you check out the manufacturer’s instructions and the building codes in your area.

Following the reference lines we drew earlier, we’ll begin laying our porcelain or ceramic tiles in the center of the room working our way to the sides and edges where there is a greater chance of cutting the tiles. Also be sure to mix the tiles from different boxes to get a more random design.

  • Mix the thinset mortar in a bucket to the recommended consistency with our mixing paddle.

  • In a cross section in the middle of the room, spread it over using a trowel, following our reference lines. Make sure to work in sections, 3 square feet is what’s normally recommended to make the installation more manageable.
  • After the thin-set mortar has been spread, using the trowel’s notched side, comb through the mortar at a 45º angle. Ensure that the line remains straight as you comb through to make sure that the ceramic or porcelain tiles will rest evenly. Remove any excess and place it back to the bucket.

  • Along the reference line, layout the first tile. Gently press and twist each tile firmly into the thin-set mortar, using tile spacers in between to make sure they are spaced evenly.

  • Continue laying the tile and periodically lift them to make sure they are sticking. If not, apply a little amount of thinset mortar to the back of the ceramic or porcelain tile.

  • Repeat the process until you have covered up most of the room, using a damp sponge to remove excess thinset  on the surface of the tiles.

  • After covering an entire section, be sure to check if the surface is even using a level bar. If some would have higher spots than others, gently tap on the porcelain or ceramic tile using a rubber mallet.

  • For the edges, corners and door frames, we may have to cut the tiles using a tile cutter for small straight cuts or a tile saw.

  • After all the tiles have been set, let the thinset mortar dry for at least 24 hours.

After the thin-set mortar has finally dried, be sure to grout it up. For this you’ll need:

    • tile grout and rubber float
    • sponges
    • tile grout sealer
    • grout haze remover
  • Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix the grout to the recommended consistency.
  • Apply the grout using the rubber grout float, pressing it into the joints. Then run it diagonally across the joints to get off excess grout.

  • After 20 minutes, wipe the surface of the tiles with a wet sponge and remove the residue with tile haze remover.
  • Avoid heavy traffic on the floor for 72 hours to let let settled and cured.

  • Finally,  apply grout sealer to the joints.

DIY Cork Flooring Installation

Cork flooring  has managed to capture and maintain its share of the market for over a century now. This is not surprising as cork is one of the most beneficial flooring products available.

Some of its many benefits include: its warmth and comfort, sound suppression, hypoallergenic, its resilience and sustainability.

As we have been saying all throughout this series, to make sure you get everything right for your DIY flooring installation, always refer to manufacturer’s instructions. The steps listed here are general practices only and some steps may vary depending on specific cork flooring products.

Below are some basic steps in installing your very own cork flooring in DIY fashion:

  1. Regardless of your flooring material of choice, the success of any DIY project rests with the proper preparation of the subfloor. Begin by removing all the baseboards, trims and mouldings. If you intend to reattach them after you’re done installing your new cork floors, be sure to remove them carefully leaving yourself reminders which belongs where by marking the spot where you removed each piece and the back of the baseboards too.

  1. Also prepare doors, doorways and jambs. You might need to saw off a part of the door casing and jamb to fit the cork flooring plank together with the underlayment. In some cases, the door itself would need to be removed and trimmed.

  1. Next is to remove old floor covering. If you plan to reuse the old flooring material, then again be cautious in pulling them off the subfloor. Think twice before putting them to trash, be creative and think of ways the old flooring can be repurposed. Also ensure that the subfloor is clean – free from dirt, debris, staples, nails and adhesive residue that may protrude and obscure your installation.

  1. Aside from thoroughly cleaning the subfloor, this is also the right time to check if the subfloor is free from damage and structurally sound to support your installation. Should there be loose or squeaking parts of the subfloor, immediately repair it.

  1. Layout the underlayment, begin in one corner of the room working through door jams and air vents.

  1. Before laying out the planks, determine, where the light is coming from. Install the planks with the seams running parallel to the light to conceal their impact.

  1. To layout the cork flooring planks, begin in one corner. Measure the recommended allowance for the expansion gap and insert spacers.

  1. It’s best to secure the first plank with screws temporarily to prevent it from slipping and ensure that we keep our installation straight.

  1. Make sure that the groove side is facing the wall.
  1. In installing succeeding pieces, just tilt it in a 45º angle then slide it in until its tightly locked in place.

  1. When you reach the opposite end of the wall, you might need to cut the last plank in order to make it fit. Be sure to take correct measurements before cutting.
  1. To lock the last plank in the first row, you might need to use a pry bar.

  1. To keep the seams from being identical and to have that staggered look on your flooring, you can use other half of the last plank from the first row. In general, it is advised that planks from different boxes are mixed so that a unique pattern will be created.
  1. Succeeding planks can be secured by giving it a light tap using a hammer and a tapping block. Be sure to keep in mind the expansion gap and place spacers between planks and the wall to keep the distance equal.

  1. Follow these steps and continue laying out the planks to the last row. Then secure the planks in the last row by again, using a pry bar.
  1. Finish off by removing the screws on the first plank and putting in the correct moulding or transition piece.

  1. Lastly re-install the baseboards and trims to cover up the expansion gap. Remember that they should be nailed to the wall and not the floor.

Cork is one of the most resilient flooring material available, with correct installation and proper care, you can keep your elegant cork flooring for generations to come.