Author: flooring.admin

Typically manageable, carpet tiles are easy to install and even easier to maintain. Since modern carpet tiles are meant to be installed without the need to use adhesives, when a particular tile gets damaged or stained, it can easily be removed to be washed or in cases of permanent stains or damage, replaced.

After preparing our subfloor, we are now ready to install our carpet tiles in an economical DIY fashion.

To make sure you get everything right, a plan and having the right tools can’t possibly hurt and would most likely save you time and energy, especially if you decided to undertake the installation yourself.

The basic tools you’ll need for this installation project are:

• carpet tiles
• recommended adhesive, if any
• utility knife
• straight hedge
• tape measure
• chalk line
• pencil

After the carpet tiles have been delivered, allow some time for it to acclimate for at least 24 hours before using them as the tiles could either contract or expand depending on the room temperature.

Using the tape measure, find the center of the room, snap a chalk line on the center of each wall to form 4 quadrants. This will make sure the dry layout of the carpet tiles will be straight and you can comfortable mix and match the tiles to form a certain pattern you like.

Once you have the pattern or design you wanted for the room, you can now securely lay down the tiles, either by locking them together or using adhesive, as directed by manufacturers.

You may need to cut the tiles when you reach the edge of the room to make it fit, along corners or curves from permanent fixtures. To do this, make sure you have the correct measurements or shape and slowly cut the tile using a utility knife. For curves or other irregular shapes, using a pattern or paper template is also recommended.

Finish up by covering the edges using baseboards or trims and installing appropriate transition pieces whenever necessary.

Bamboo is one of the most versatile and resilient materials out there with usage ranging from fashion, food, medicine and construction among others. From centuries of use, bamboo has continuously proven its reliability.

Perhaps the greatest selling point and the reason why more and more people prefer bamboo flooring is because it is both an environmentally friendly and highly sustainable material, however keep in mind that not all bamboo flooring are created equal. You may want to double check the manufacturing and delivery processes, if they comply with environmental standards.

When you go out to buy bamboo flooring, be sure to add about 5-10 percent of the material to allow room for errors as well as spared should there be a need to replace some planks or boards in the future.

After the planks have been delivered, don’t get ahead of yourself and immediately install them. Get all the flooring materials in the room where they will be installed and lift them of the boxes or at least leave them open so that the planks can acclimate with the room’s natural conditions. The acclimation process is normally around 72 hours, but its best to see manufacturer’s instructions and follow that.

Subfloor:

Again, as with any flooring material, the success of your DIY installation project will largely depend on the subfloor’s preparation. Preparation will vary depending on the type of subfloor you have and the type of installation you have in mind.

In general, the subfloor must be level, structurally sound, clean and dry.

The level of the subfloor will affect not only the appearance of the bamboo flooring but also its durability. Its important to have a structurally sound subfloor to support the bamboo flooring. By structurally sound, we mean no squeaking floorboards or shaky joists. All repairs must be done before flooring planks are attached. The subfloor must be pristinely clean, thoroughly swept free from nails, staples or adhesive residue. Lastly and most important, the subfloor must be dry with a recommended room temperature of 60-70º and a humidity of about 40-60%.

Tools:

The following tools will be needed for a DIY bamboo flooring installation:

• measuring tape
• hand saw or power saw
• tapping block
• wood or plastic spacers
• pry bar
• hammer
• chalk line
• pencil
• recommended underlayment/moisture barrier
• bamboo flooring

As we mentioned earlier, there are several ways to install bamboo flooring and these types of installations will require different tools:

1. Nailed-down Installation – for this type you’ll also need:

• the appropriate nailer/nail gun
• nail application chart

2. Glued-down Installation – for this type, we need:

• recommended flooring adhesive
• trowel
• pail, optional for mixing adhesive

3. Floating Installation – 

• poly film foam or other manufacturer recommended product
• PVAC glue
• poly or duct tape

Some Final Pre-installation Reminders:

• Be sure to remove existing trims, mouldings and baseboards to the room.
• Also trim doorways, door and passage ways
• Remember to examine each piece of flooring for defects and use planks from different boxes to give a unique look.
• Remember to use the tapping block to securely lock each plank and gently pull with a pry bar.
• Begin on the longest side of the room and continue on that line.
• Remember to keep allowance for expansion.

value of a home. More importantly, it is suitable to almost any kind of environmental conditions and would work well with other flooring solutions.

Tools and equipment needed to do the installation will depend on the ceramic or porcelain tile flooring product you intend to use. However, some of the common and basic materials are:

• flooring tiles, remember to add at least 10% allowance for mistakes/waste
• thinset mortar or mastic, as recommended for the product
• buckets and mixing paddle
• drill and drill bits
• notched trowel
• sponge
• tape measure
• pencil and square
• tile spacers
• lever
• rubber mallet
• tile cutter or saw
• rubber work gloves
• kneepads
• safety glasses
• mouldings, transitions or tile metal strips as needed

Before proceeding with the project, be sure that the subfloor have been prepared to perfection, meaning it is generally in good condition: leveled and is in the proper thickness. Make sure you check out the manufacturer’s instructions and the building codes in your area.

Following the reference lines we drew earlier, we’ll begin laying our porcelain or ceramic tiles in the center of the room working our way to the sides and edges where there is a greater chance of cutting the tiles. Also be sure to mix the tiles from different boxes to get a more random design.

• Mix the thinset mortar in a bucket to the recommended consistency with our mixing paddle.

• In a cross section in the middle of the room, spread it over using a trowel, following our reference lines. Make sure to work in sections, 3 square feet is what’s normally recommended to make the installation more manageable.

• After the thin-set mortar has been spread, using the trowel’s notched side, comb through the mortar at a 45º angle. Ensure that the line remains straight as you comb through to make sure that the ceramic or porcelain tiles will rest evenly. Remove any excess and place it back to the bucket.

• Along the reference line, layout the first tile. Gently press and twist each tile firmly into the thin-set mortar, using tile spacers in between to make sure they are spaced evenly.

• Continue laying the tile and periodically lift them to make sure they are sticking. If not, apply a little amount of thinset mortar to the back of the ceramic or porcelain tile.

• Repeat the process until you have covered up most of the room, using a damp sponge to remove excess thinset  on the surface of the tiles.

• After covering an entire section, be sure to check if the surface is even using a level bar. If some would have higher spots than others, gently tap on the porcelain or ceramic tile using a rubber mallet.

• For the edges, corners and door frames, we may have to cut the tiles using a tile cutter for small straight cuts or a tile saw.

• After all the tiles have been set, let the thinset mortar dry for at least 24 hours.

After the thin-set mortar has finally dried, be sure to grout it up. For this you’ll need:

• • tile grout and rubber float
  • sponges
  • tile grout sealer
  • grout haze remover

• Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix the grout to the recommended consistency.

• Apply the grout using the rubber grout float, pressing it into the joints. Then run it diagonally across the joints to get off excess grout.

• After 20 minutes, wipe the surface of the tiles with a wet sponge and remove the residue with tile haze remover.
• Avoid heavy traffic on the floor for 72 hours to let let settled and cured.

• Finally,  apply grout sealer to the joints.

Cork flooring  has managed to capture and maintain its share of the market for over a century now. This is not surprising as cork is one of the most beneficial flooring products available.

Some of its many benefits include: its warmth and comfort, sound suppression, hypoallergenic, its resilience and sustainability.

As we have been saying all throughout this series, to make sure you get everything right for your DIY flooring installation, always refer to manufacturer’s instructions. The steps listed here are general practices only and some steps may vary depending on specific cork flooring products.

Below are some basic steps in installing your very own cork flooring in DIY fashion:

1. Regardless of your flooring material of choice, the success of any DIY project rests with the proper preparation of the subfloor. Begin by removing all the baseboards, trims and mouldings. If you intend to reattach them after you’re done installing your new cork floors, be sure to remove them carefully leaving yourself reminders which belongs where by marking the spot where you removed each piece and the back of the baseboards too.

2. Also prepare doors, doorways and jambs. You might need to saw off a part of the door casing and jamb to fit the cork flooring plank together with the underlayment. In some cases, the door itself would need to be removed and trimmed.

3. Next is to remove old floor covering. If you plan to reuse the old flooring material, then again be cautious in pulling them off the subfloor. Think twice before putting them to trash, be creative and think of ways the old flooring can be repurposed. Also ensure that the subfloor is clean – free from dirt, debris, staples, nails and adhesive residue that may protrude and obscure your installation.

4. Aside from thoroughly cleaning the subfloor, this is also the right time to check if the subfloor is free from damage and structurally sound to support your installation. Should there be loose or squeaking parts of the subfloor, immediately repair it.

5. Layout the underlayment, begin in one corner of the room working through door jams and air vents.

6. Before laying out the planks, determine, where the light is coming from. Install the planks with the seams running parallel to the light to conceal their impact.

7. To layout the cork flooring planks, begin in one corner. Measure the recommended allowance for the expansion gap and insert spacers.

8. It’s best to secure the first plank with screws temporarily to prevent it from slipping and ensure that we keep our installation straight.

9. Make sure that the groove side is facing the wall.

10. In installing succeeding pieces, just tilt it in a 45º angle then slide it in until its tightly locked in place.

11. When you reach the opposite end of the wall, you might need to cut the last plank in order to make it fit. Be sure to take correct measurements before cutting.

12. To lock the last plank in the first row, you might need to use a pry bar.

13. To keep the seams from being identical and to have that staggered look on your flooring, you can use other half of the last plank from the first row. In general, it is advised that planks from different boxes are mixed so that a unique pattern will be created.

14. Succeeding planks can be secured by giving it a light tap using a hammer and a tapping block. Be sure to keep in mind the expansion gap and place spacers between planks and the wall to keep the distance equal.

15. Follow these steps and continue laying out the planks to the last row. Then secure the planks in the last row by again, using a pry bar.

16. Finish off by removing the screws on the first plank and putting in the correct moulding or transition piece.

17. Lastly re-install the baseboards and trims to cover up the expansion gap. Remember that they should be nailed to the wall and not the floor.

Cork is one of the most resilient flooring material available, with correct installation and proper care, you can keep your elegant cork flooring for generations to come.

Carpet tiles are not only cheaper compared to other flooring materials. They are also more versatile and easier to install, keep and maintain. Moreover, they give you more room for creativity as you can create simple patterns like checkerboards or add inlets, mix and match patterns and colors and all that stuff.

Comfortable and visually appealing, carpet tiles can add that needed oomph by giving instant warmth and comfort in the room or simply a splash of color. With the different colors and patterns available at a fraction of the cost of wall-to-wall carpeting, the possibilities of creating a cool and personalized space is simply limitless.

How much to buy and how much time?

In order to determine how much flooring material you’ll need, in this case how many carpet tiles. Take your tape measure and get the length and width of the rooms you plan to put the carpet tiles on. Once you have them, multiply both to get the actual square footage of the room, don’t forget to add an extra 5-10 per cent to accommodate errors and have spares for future repair or replacements.

If you’re planning to create a pattern more complicated than checkerboards, then you might consider seeking advice from your local stores as their flooring professionals can offer you with a more accurate estimate and perhaps suggest a pattern or design better suited to your needs or purpose.

What’s the time for? It’s for acclimation. Yes, just like wood-based flooring, carpet tiles also need to get acclimated to the place where it’ll be installed. At the very least, this calls for 24 hours.

Preparing Subfloors

The success of any flooring installation whether done by a DIY enthusiast or flooring experts depends largely on preparing an important component of the flooring process: the subfloor. Subfloor preparation steps vary depending on the flooring you want to install, the subfloor type and its location.

Concrete Subfloors

• If the concrete subfloor is a new one, be sure to allow sufficient time for the concrete to cure before installing carpet tiles. The recommended waiting time is about 90 days.
• For the cracks, fill them with concrete caulk. For deep, tiny cracks, use a  caulk gun to make sure all gaps and spaces are filled out.
• Be sure that the surface of the subfloor is level. Use a level bar to check if the subfloor is even and a grinder to trim high spaces. For low surfaces, you can apply a levelling compound mixed according to manufacturer’s instructions. Let it set and dry according to manufacturer’s instructions then check again to make sure that its even.
• Sweep or vacuum the floor thoroughly, removing all dirt all traces of residue from previous flooring, if this installation is an upgrade or replacement. If you have enough time to let it dry, you can also wash and wipe the subfloor to perfection.
• Depending on your carpet tile of choice, it might be necessary to use a concrete sealer on the subfloor prior to installation. Follow manufacturer’s instructions and set it to dry.

Wood Subfloor

• Since wood is more prone to damage than concrete, be sure to thoroughly examine the subfloor for damage. Any warping or sheeting might require repairs or replacements. Its also important to check flooring joists as the soundness of the subfloor’s structure will contribute to the overall success of your DIY carpet tiles installation.
• Again, check if the subfloor is level. Sand o plane as needed.
• For low spaces, use prescribed latex levelling compound and apply following manufacturer’s instructions.
• Vacuum, sweep and wipe to remove all traces of dirt and grime and scrape off any stubborn residues.

After we’ve carefully prepared the subfloor  for our DIY flooring installation, we are now ready to put in our bamboo flooring. First, make sure you get your measurements and lines straight, you can have a dry layout of the planks in a few rows before securing the same with nails or adhesive.

Some things to consider in installing bamboo flooring planks are the longest wall in the room, the direction of the light to conceal seams impact as well as windows and entryways.

Experienced DIYers can cover about 200 square feet in a day.

1. Nailed-down Installation – also referred to as secret nailing method, this is the traditional way of installing bamboo flooring, as well as other wooden flooring materials using nails or staples. Here, nails will be rammed on the tongue side of the plank to be nailed on flooring joists using a blind nailer, hence the name secret nailing since the next row will conceal the nails on the tongue of the previous ones.

The challenge here would be the identification and marking or the flooring joists. Each piece of flooring should be nailed every 8 inches and within 2 inches of each end at a 45º angle.

As it is with normal hardwood flooring installation, the first and last rows would have to be face-nailed.

Lastly, checkout manufacturer’s instructions to see if there are recommended putties to help you conceal nail holes on the floors.

2. Glued-down Installation – this process mimics that of installing tile flooring. This application is suitable for both wooden and concrete subfloors. Some adhesives are formulated to resist moisture build up eliminating the need to use vapor or moisture barriers.

Some adhesive are available ready for use while some would have to be mixed. Be sure to follow manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations when mixing the adhesive from the amount of water required to the ideal consistency of the mixture and  the appropriate trowel size.

Begin on the side of the wall with the first plank’s grove facing the wall. Make sure that there is enough ventilation in the room and don’t forget the recommended expansion gap. If curing is allowed prior to laying out the planks on top of the adhesive, be sure to do just that.

Ensure that planks are straight and correctly aligned. Immediately wipe off excess adhesive on top of the flooring using a damp cloth and walk on the flooring – every square feet of it to make sure that the planks would bond with the adhesive. Use weights as needed.

3. Floating Floor – this refers to gluing only the tongue and groove of the bamboo flooring planks installed over underlayments and other recommended cushions. This is generally recommended for radiant heat and ideal for below grade installations.

Begin on one side of the wall, groove facing the wall. Apply adhesive on the tongue and grooves successively. Lay subsequent rows of planks and use a tapping block to securely lock them. For the ends of each row, use a pry bar for a needed push.

Your floor can be as colorful as you wanted it to be by using different types of laminate flooring to your advantage. Create illusions of grandeur, enjoy its durability for years to come and save on flooring expenses now. These days laminate flooring comes in standard and even larger planks mimicking all sorts of surface from traditional hardwood for an elegant finish to rustic re-purposed planks for a more authentic appeal. They also imitate stone tile flooring surface and appearance as that of marble and granite.

risalafurniture.ae

The key to choosing the right laminate floor material and other flooring needs is understanding the different types of available laminate flooring solutions. Once you know more about the materials, it will be easier to know what best suits your needs and preferences.

What are the parts of laminate floors?

To begin with, laminate floors are great alternative for ceramic and wooden floors. They are durable especially in humid weather. They are also easy to install and cost less that the real wood, marble or ceramic. Finally, laminate floors are also easier to maintain and clean.

Knowing the different types, parts and components will not only help you buy the right one but it can also greatly help prolong the life of your laminate flooring. Each laminate plank basically has the following parts:

www.kingswell.com.au

1. The wear layer. This is the top portion which you walk on. It is shiny because it is made of plastic resin and paper cellulose. It protects the print underneath and it is designed to receive foot fall on different levels – from very light to really heavy.

2. The pattern layer. Known as the design layer. This is where images are printed and gives character to the flooring. Because it is protected by the top or the wear layer, it does not get scratched or faded. Without this, your top layer will only be a transparent plastic.

3. The core. This is the layer that holds the floor together. Without this, the pattern and the top layers will easily get crumpled. The quality of a laminate floor depends on this part. It can be made thin or thick. Paraffin waxes are made to sip inside it to prevent water from getting in.

4. The stabilizer. It holds the floor in place with its rough surface made of melamine plastic resin. It also serves as a protection from the outside environment just like the top layer.

What are the different methods of installation of laminate floors in terms of function?

Installation and construction of laminate differ depending on the type. Every piece has its own function in installation. Laminate floors are easy to install and can be done on your own. The types of laminate floors according to construction are:

shutterstock.com

1. Stepdown Stair Nose – these are laminated planks that are fitted on staircase steps.

2. Reducer strip. This connects the laminate tile or plant to other type of floor in your house like vinyl or ceramic.

3. End molding. They regulate the height of your carpet if you wish to add carpet over your floor.

4. T-molding. It edges the adjoining rooms. It is also serves partition when joining your laminate floor to a different type of floor in your house provided that they have the same height.

5. Quarter round. It is installed when the laminate plank reaches any wall in your house.

There are many types of laminate floors. Each of them has its own function. Know each and every type so your DIY project will look like professionally done in no time.

If you’re like some who can spend an entire day in their bedroom or if you plan for your kids to spend more time in theirs, better make sure its well decorated and well fit for other activities other than watching TV or sleeping. While the room’s size will always be a big factor, creativity and being organized can do wonders.

So what’s the best flooring for bedrooms?

Our top choice, without any question is cork. While it can be a little bit more costly than other flooring solutions available in the market today, it has everything any homeowner can possibly look for:

• Its environmental-friendly. Made from natural materials and totally sustainable. Cork flooring is made from the bark of cork oak trees. When the trees are of age, the bark is taken of carefully by hand. This is usually done in regulated cork oak farms so trees are properly taken care of.
• Cork is extremely durable. Some old buildings who used cork flooring about a hundred years ago still have their original cork flooring up to this day. Its water-resistant and is made up of mostly air chambers so it doesn’t dent easily.

• Cork flooring has suberin – a natural chemical that fights decay, adding to its durability and most importantly, suberin repels bacteria making your floor hypoallergenic.
• Cork is a great insulator – both for sound and cold. Cork absorbs sound when something is dropped on the floor. It also provides warmth and dryness to the floor regardless of the weather.

• Cork can be stained and it comes in different sizes. Some are even available with pre-attached adhesive making flooring installation a breeze.
• Its naturally rich patterns and gorgeous wood hues, it can go by its already stylish self without the need of staining.
• Cork flooring requires less maintenance and it is very easy to clean.

Today we’ll take a look at common commercial flooring choices. Knowing a bit about them will help you greatly in choosing the best flooring material for your office, business or shop. Having the right material at the right place for the right use will greatly benefit your investment in the long run plus you don’t have to bother with frequent repairs and replacements.

Before deciding to pick which commercial flooring product is the best for you, think about a the following factors:

• Location. This is mostly important because location affects the humidity, moisture and climate that can have an impact on your floors. In places where there are frequent rains or there is high moisture, having wood-based products is generally not advisable because it will be pretty hard to control everything that goes on in a commercial environment.

jags-webdesign.com

• Budget. This is another important factor to consider since your budget might include materials, installation and maintenance all in one. If this is the case then you would have to consider the amount and cost of the material you’ll choose together with the installation costs. It will also be helpful to consider the size of the area you intend to cover to ensure that you are not going over-budget.

• Installation. This is very important especially if you already have an operational business. Installation will have to be quick and easy to ensure that you are open for business as soon a possible and that clients’ needs are met without much hassle or disruption.

• Maintenance. The material and installation may have already cost you time and money, in some cases it might have also caused you to close up shop and stop business so maintenance will have to be something that’s easy-breezy to ensure that you don’t close up on your customers any longer than you already have. It has to be something that can be done as quickly as possible.

texturesflooring.com

• Durability. The product you’d choose to use on your floors should be something that’s very well suited to your needs and purpose. If you expect to have a lot of footfall then choose something suitable to it, the same is true if you expect to have heavy equipment or some amount of water every once in a while.

Now that you have some important points to consider, what then are the materials to choose from? Well, here they are:

1. Vinyl Flooring – durable, low on maintenance and comes in dozens and dozens of designs to choose from. Vinyl flooring is one of the most popular commercial flooring choices out there because it offers ease of installation and friendliness to the budget. plus its great at withstanding daily wear and tear.

houzz.com

2. Carpet Tiles – cheap, comes in various designs, colors and textures, carpet tiles are also another popular commercial flooring materials especially in office spaces because of its noise suppression properties. Comfortable and classy, its ideal for work spaces and office cubicles that require some quiet for thinking.

blog.focusfloors.com

3. Rubber – sturdy, resilient to wear and tear and offers excellent support and comfort, rubber is a popular commercial flooring choice in gyms and other environment where there are a lot of physical activities going on.

flooring.interiorfans.com

4. Concrete – known for its practical durability, concrete is another popular commercial flooring choice because it’s both cheap and flexible. Left as it is for a rustic feel or coated with plain latex, rubberized or resin finished special paint to make it more attractive and have more traction and support, concrete will pretty much to the job.

designercustomconcrete.com

5. Laminate – with a wide array of design choices, sizes and different levels of tolerance to foot-traffic, laminate is another material commonly used in commercial spaces. It is able to withstand moisture and other climatic elements as well as daily wear and tear and it comes with intricate design and even rich textures to mimic either stone or wood flooring minus the pricey costs so that makes it the perfect choice.

pinterest.com

Now, don’t think you have limited choices, again any type can work as commercial flooring. It just have to be very well-suited to your commercial space’s purpose.

Ease of installation and durability are two of the main reasons why more and morepeople now prefer having prefinished hardwood flooring in their homes.

Compared to hardwood flooring that are finished on-site, prefinished hardwood flooring is sealed with more powerful finish that allows your flooring to last longer. Since the finish is already applied it can be installed and used as soon as the flooring is fixed on the subfloor – no more waiting for the sealant to dry up and definitely no strong chemical odors will hung around.

Another great benefit is that this particular type of hardwood flooring is also easy to clean. Maintaining them is as easy as following these 4 quick steps:

1. Sweep it up.  Make sure that you prefinished hardwood flooring gets regular sweeping with a soft-bristled, non-scratching broom or vacuum to lift of dust and other small dirt residue gathered from everyday use. If you’re using a vacuum make sure it has a rubber snooze to prevent unwanted scratching. Dirt and debris can cause scratches and build-up on your floors. Keep them pretty and attractive.

2. Clean it quick. Whether its an accidental spill or a stain, be sure to quickly soak it up and pat it dry. Take note, soak up  and not wipe, especially if its materials that can cause stain or damage to the finish. Rubbing it on the surface may do more harm than good. After the spill has been soaked up, be sure to pat it dry. Avoid wiping as it may have some debris or residue that can cause ugly scratches on the finish.

3. Wipe it right. After the sweeping has been done, wipe the floors with a soft mat or cloth using a solution, wax or any recommended product that is recommended for your particular brand of flooring. As much as possible avoid mixing cleaners because it may harm your flooring’s finish. When trying out a new product for the first time, be sure to test it in a small area that’s hidden or can easily be covered up should your attempt backfire.

   

4. Make rugs and mats work. Area rugs and doormats are more than just accessories, they serve a purpose – to protect your flooring surface. In areas where there is not just high traffic but activities that can pose some risks on your prefinished hardwood, it might be a great idea to use these. All entryways, especially those that are from the outside should have doormats – main doors, back doors, deck or patio doors, basement doors – since these are the areas that would usually bring in more dirt. Workshops, entertainment and play areas are the accident spill and stain prone areas, so you better watch out for these.

We hope that you will follow these quick tips as you continue your spring cleaning!