Month: December 2019

Recommended for high traffic areas, ceramic and porcelain tile flooring is a great addition to your home. An excellent flooring material since they handle moisture well, durable and also comes in various styles, sizes and colors that would complement, highlight and accentuate any place in your property.

Planning to install ceramic or porcelain tiles DIY? Read these basic steps in preparing for installation. Keep in mind this requires some skills and certain tools so better think twice if you’re really gonna do it or leave it to the more trained hands of flooring professionals.

Speaking of tools, here are the ones needed in preparing the subfloor:

• cement backerboard (underlayment)
• polymer modified thin-set mortar
• notched trowel
• galvanized roofing nails or corrosion resistant screws
• drill and drill bits
• saw
• alkali-resistant cement board seam tape
• utility knife
• tape measure
• pencil
• chalk line and square
• knee pads, gloves and safety glasses
• patch and leveler
• tile spacers
• ceramic or porcelain flooring tiles

So how many ceramic or laminate flooring tiles do you need? To get an estimate measure the length and width of the room where you plan to install the flooring tiles multiply both to get the square footage you need. Finally, add 10-20 per cent more to cover for mistakes and replacements. Some stores have calculators included in their websites.

Remember these criteria that should be met before porcelain or ceramic tile flooring is installed: the subfloor should be 1) uniform and level; 2) in appropriate thickness; and 3) in overall good condition. Before proceeding with the preparation, it won’t hurt to check out the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you take all the necessary steps. Also check out the building codes in your area to avoid any inconvenience.

Next, checkout your subfloor. some materials, like vinyl are suitable for tile installation others however would have to be removed. Baseboards and trips would also need to be removed. Put the cement backerboard and a piece of tile against the door casing and mark their height. Clear out that space to make sure the flooring would fit. Be sure to cut the door too.

Another thing to consider is the resulting height of the flooring after installation. This will be crucial if you are planning to install the tile in the bathroom as the added elevation increases the chances of water spilling out. Keep in mind the height of furniture and other stuff as it is possible that the resulting floor will be more or less an inch higher.

Check if the subfloor is level before laying down the backerboards to make sure tiles are protected from unnecessary pressure. Use the patch and leveler following product directions. Be sure to allow the right time for the leveling compound to cure. Another popular technique used to ensure that the subfloor is level is by screeding. This application was initially used for commercial installations but are now also widely used in homes. Here, when there are high spots, the rest of the flooring is then raised to make it level and even.

When the subfloor is level, we are now ready to install our backerboards that will serve as a foundation for our ceramic or porcelain tile flooring. Apply the thin-set mortar on the subfloor, make sure to spread them in sections and its best to begin doing so in a corner. Lay down the backerboard and secure it in place with using corrosion resistant screws.

If you need to cut the board, simply score it with the utility knife and snap it. Be sure to cut it on the backside after it snaps to make sure you don’t damage the mesh.

Continue with the thin-set application and backerboard layout until you have covered the entire room.

Cover the joints with cement board seam tape and apply mortar.

The next step is to mark our guidelines to ensure that the layout is square all throughout. To do this, mark the center of the 2 opposing walls in the room and snap a chalk line. Do the same for the adjacent walls to form a cross. Check if their intersection is square. This would be sufficient if the room is small. You can now layout the tiles, following the guidelines to see how they would fit, using tile spaces in between to make sure the distance is even. Don’t forget to leave the recommended expansion gap beside walls and cabinets. This is known as the dry layout.

If the dry layout would leave a distance less than half the tile’s with at the end on one wall, move the layout by first adjusting the guidelines and leaving equal distance on each side.

For larger areas, it is ideal to draw a grid of 3-foot squares across the room to make sure the layout will be even all throughout. Working in smaller section will make it more accurate and easier to make adjustments when needed.

With the correct guidelines and a dry layout, we were able to see how the installation would look like. We are now ready to install the ceramic or porcelain tile flooring

Linoleum flooring has made a comeback! Contrary to popular belief that they belong to some rundown buildings and establishments no longer used or homes that have not been lived in in ages, with the rise of consciousness for more environmentally sound flooring products, linoleum has received some well-deserved and overdue attention it has not seen in recent years.

As it is with other flooring process, success depends on subfloor preparation and choosing the right flooring material. As we’ve mentioned earlier, linoleum has evolved into something not only trendier but also in form. We still have the classic linoleum sheets and the newer generation of linoleum tiles and floating ones.

It can be argued that linoleum is perhaps the greenest flooring product available in the market to date. It is manufactured from purely natural materials invented in the 1940s. These same materials and processes are still used today.

To continue with our DIY flooring installation, the next step is to identify the manner to install your new flooring. This of course will vary depending on the type of linoleum flooring you’d use. Sheet and linoleum tiles are usually installed using spread or full adhesive while floating linoleum normally uses the common click and lock technology.

The tools needed will also depend on the type of installation the manufacturers recommend for different linoleum flooring products. Commonly used for installing linoleum sheets are:

• Carpenter’s square

• Gloves

• Masking tape

• Measuring tape

• Half–moon knife and guide plate

• Pencil and/or felt–tipped pen

• Respirator or mask

• Scribers, snips and/or shears

• Straight edge

• Utility knife, edge trimmer and/or trimming knives (under, over, straight)

While linoleum tile installation would require the following:

• 100 lb roller and/or rolling pin

• Chalk line

• Floor pattern or craft paper

• Full–spread adhesive

• Notched trowel

• Scissors

• Seam–sealer kit or seam welder

• Staple gun

Finally, click and lock linoleum flooring would require the use of the following tools:

• Hammer

• Handsaw

• Keyhole, jig or power saw

• Tapping block

• Tension iron or pry bar

• Wedges

Subfloor Preparation

Before proceeding with site preparation, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you are aware of any special steps you need to take before installation. Also check building codes before scratching the surface of your old flooring.

• Remove all furniture and equipment before the installation. If you’ll be using wood subfloors or an underlayment is required, make sure to account for the ending thickness of the new floor and be sure to trim door, door casings and door jambs.

• You also need to remove wall trims and mouldings you can either reuse or discard them but you need them out of the way in order to properly install the new flooring.
• Remove old floor covering. If you plan on reusing the old flooring material, then carefully remove them and keep damage to a minimum.
• After removing the old flooring, thoroughly clean the subfloor and ensure that it is structurally sound, level and free from water or moisture.
• Some products might require installing plywood for underlayment, be sure to get an underlayment-grade plywood or a material specifically recommended for the product.
• If you’ll be installing the linoleum over concrete subfloor, carefully follow manufacturer’s directions on whether or not the moisture in the room is appropriate with the product you have and what to do to fix it if its not.
• The same is true for below-grade installation, this might require laying down a moisture barrier.
• Leveling concrete floors might require using grinders and a leveling compound, be sure to read and follow manufacturer’s instructions when using them.
• Lastly, always use safety and protective gear especially when handling tools and equipment.

We’ve already written some posts on laminate flooring – what they are, how to choose the perfect laminates, gave a buying guide as well as how to clean and handle stains in them.

You may think that you’ve got everything you need and know absolutely everything you need to know about them and you’re probably about to go online or hit the nearest retailer in your area to get boxes and boxes of your perfect laminate flooring of choice…but you thought of something and stopped on your tracks: you realized you don’t know anyone who can install it and you’re not sure if you can do it.

Well we today, we give you the basics on how to install laminate flooring.

The most important thing to do before you begin is to make sure you have all the materials and tools you need. Common tools are:

• saw (miter and table saw);
• pencil
• safety glasses/goggles
• knee pads
• flooring installation kit (with pull bar and spacers)
• hammer
• tapping bar
• tape measure
• moisture barrier/vapor layer (especially for concrete subfloors)
• adhesive (depends on laminate flooring brand)
• underpads (depends on the brand as some have pre-attached ones)
• accessories (moldings, trims, stair noses)
• laminate flooring boards (with 5-10% allowance for waste, replacement or repairs in the future)

The next step is also critical. No matter what brand, with or without installation experience, one should always, always read the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

The succeeding steps are general processes observed and might slightly vary depending on the type of laminate flooring you are using and the specific set of instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Preparation

Site preparation. First remove the old flooring and thoroughly clean the surface to get rid of unnecessary debris, dirt and all other residue from the previous flooring product.

Carefully examine the area and check for needed repairs. Make sure that the subfloor’s surface is leveled by using a standard straight edge laser. Should there be uneven surfaces then simply apply thinset mortar to fill it. Its available in most hardware stores.

Don’t forget to measure the resulting flooring and make the necessary adjustments with your doors, trimmings, stairs and other transitions.

Consider also the subfloor material. For wood surfaces, as long as the subfloor is in good condition and shows no sign of damage – like decay or cupping, then you can go right ahead and put the laminate flooring in. The case is different with concrete though.

Moisture or vapor barriers are necessary for concrete subfloors to prevent moisture from seeping in from beneath which might cause damage to the flooring.

Also check the laminate flooring. Some products already have pre-attached underpads while others might require you to lay a separate sheet. Underpads provide a noise reduction for laminate flooring.

If you’re doing a major home makeover then ensure that all other jobs like carpentry and painting are all done before installing the laminate flooring to make sure that the surface are protected from unwanted scratches and stains. What’s the point of having a new floor when it’ll be less than perfect even before you get the chance to enjoy it?

Product Preparation. This is rather pretty simple. First make sure to examine each board or plank for any damage that might affect installation. Also scrutinize tongues and grooves to make sure they are whole and free from chips that could make locking them together hard or would leave seams visible or else gaps.

After checking, carefully arrange the laminate flooring on the room where it’ll be installed to allow it to acclimate. Acclimation simply means letting the product adapt to the temperature in the room thereby letting it expand or contract naturally for at least 72 hours.

There you have it, the initial steps in preparing for a DIY laminate flooring installation. Watch out for part 2 for the step by step process and more tips.

Typically manageable, carpet tiles are easy to install and even easier to maintain. Since modern carpet tiles are meant to be installed without the need to use adhesives, when a particular tile gets damaged or stained, it can easily be removed to be washed or in cases of permanent stains or damage, replaced.

After preparing our subfloor, we are now ready to install our carpet tiles in an economical DIY fashion.

To make sure you get everything right, a plan and having the right tools can’t possibly hurt and would most likely save you time and energy, especially if you decided to undertake the installation yourself.

The basic tools you’ll need for this installation project are:

• carpet tiles
• recommended adhesive, if any
• utility knife
• straight hedge
• tape measure
• chalk line
• pencil

After the carpet tiles have been delivered, allow some time for it to acclimate for at least 24 hours before using them as the tiles could either contract or expand depending on the room temperature.

Using the tape measure, find the center of the room, snap a chalk line on the center of each wall to form 4 quadrants. This will make sure the dry layout of the carpet tiles will be straight and you can comfortable mix and match the tiles to form a certain pattern you like.

Once you have the pattern or design you wanted for the room, you can now securely lay down the tiles, either by locking them together or using adhesive, as directed by manufacturers.

You may need to cut the tiles when you reach the edge of the room to make it fit, along corners or curves from permanent fixtures. To do this, make sure you have the correct measurements or shape and slowly cut the tile using a utility knife. For curves or other irregular shapes, using a pattern or paper template is also recommended.

Finish up by covering the edges using baseboards or trims and installing appropriate transition pieces whenever necessary.

Bamboo is one of the most versatile and resilient materials out there with usage ranging from fashion, food, medicine and construction among others. From centuries of use, bamboo has continuously proven its reliability.

Perhaps the greatest selling point and the reason why more and more people prefer bamboo flooring is because it is both an environmentally friendly and highly sustainable material, however keep in mind that not all bamboo flooring are created equal. You may want to double check the manufacturing and delivery processes, if they comply with environmental standards.

When you go out to buy bamboo flooring, be sure to add about 5-10 percent of the material to allow room for errors as well as spared should there be a need to replace some planks or boards in the future.

After the planks have been delivered, don’t get ahead of yourself and immediately install them. Get all the flooring materials in the room where they will be installed and lift them of the boxes or at least leave them open so that the planks can acclimate with the room’s natural conditions. The acclimation process is normally around 72 hours, but its best to see manufacturer’s instructions and follow that.

Subfloor:

Again, as with any flooring material, the success of your DIY installation project will largely depend on the subfloor’s preparation. Preparation will vary depending on the type of subfloor you have and the type of installation you have in mind.

In general, the subfloor must be level, structurally sound, clean and dry.

The level of the subfloor will affect not only the appearance of the bamboo flooring but also its durability. Its important to have a structurally sound subfloor to support the bamboo flooring. By structurally sound, we mean no squeaking floorboards or shaky joists. All repairs must be done before flooring planks are attached. The subfloor must be pristinely clean, thoroughly swept free from nails, staples or adhesive residue. Lastly and most important, the subfloor must be dry with a recommended room temperature of 60-70º and a humidity of about 40-60%.

Tools:

The following tools will be needed for a DIY bamboo flooring installation:

• measuring tape
• hand saw or power saw
• tapping block
• wood or plastic spacers
• pry bar
• hammer
• chalk line
• pencil
• recommended underlayment/moisture barrier
• bamboo flooring

As we mentioned earlier, there are several ways to install bamboo flooring and these types of installations will require different tools:

1. Nailed-down Installation – for this type you’ll also need:

• the appropriate nailer/nail gun
• nail application chart

2. Glued-down Installation – for this type, we need:

• recommended flooring adhesive
• trowel
• pail, optional for mixing adhesive

3. Floating Installation – 

• poly film foam or other manufacturer recommended product
• PVAC glue
• poly or duct tape

Some Final Pre-installation Reminders:

• Be sure to remove existing trims, mouldings and baseboards to the room.
• Also trim doorways, door and passage ways
• Remember to examine each piece of flooring for defects and use planks from different boxes to give a unique look.
• Remember to use the tapping block to securely lock each plank and gently pull with a pry bar.
• Begin on the longest side of the room and continue on that line.
• Remember to keep allowance for expansion.

value of a home. More importantly, it is suitable to almost any kind of environmental conditions and would work well with other flooring solutions.

Tools and equipment needed to do the installation will depend on the ceramic or porcelain tile flooring product you intend to use. However, some of the common and basic materials are:

• flooring tiles, remember to add at least 10% allowance for mistakes/waste
• thinset mortar or mastic, as recommended for the product
• buckets and mixing paddle
• drill and drill bits
• notched trowel
• sponge
• tape measure
• pencil and square
• tile spacers
• lever
• rubber mallet
• tile cutter or saw
• rubber work gloves
• kneepads
• safety glasses
• mouldings, transitions or tile metal strips as needed

Before proceeding with the project, be sure that the subfloor have been prepared to perfection, meaning it is generally in good condition: leveled and is in the proper thickness. Make sure you check out the manufacturer’s instructions and the building codes in your area.

Following the reference lines we drew earlier, we’ll begin laying our porcelain or ceramic tiles in the center of the room working our way to the sides and edges where there is a greater chance of cutting the tiles. Also be sure to mix the tiles from different boxes to get a more random design.

• Mix the thinset mortar in a bucket to the recommended consistency with our mixing paddle.

• In a cross section in the middle of the room, spread it over using a trowel, following our reference lines. Make sure to work in sections, 3 square feet is what’s normally recommended to make the installation more manageable.

• After the thin-set mortar has been spread, using the trowel’s notched side, comb through the mortar at a 45º angle. Ensure that the line remains straight as you comb through to make sure that the ceramic or porcelain tiles will rest evenly. Remove any excess and place it back to the bucket.

• Along the reference line, layout the first tile. Gently press and twist each tile firmly into the thin-set mortar, using tile spacers in between to make sure they are spaced evenly.

• Continue laying the tile and periodically lift them to make sure they are sticking. If not, apply a little amount of thinset mortar to the back of the ceramic or porcelain tile.

• Repeat the process until you have covered up most of the room, using a damp sponge to remove excess thinset  on the surface of the tiles.

• After covering an entire section, be sure to check if the surface is even using a level bar. If some would have higher spots than others, gently tap on the porcelain or ceramic tile using a rubber mallet.

• For the edges, corners and door frames, we may have to cut the tiles using a tile cutter for small straight cuts or a tile saw.

• After all the tiles have been set, let the thinset mortar dry for at least 24 hours.

After the thin-set mortar has finally dried, be sure to grout it up. For this you’ll need:

• • tile grout and rubber float
  • sponges
  • tile grout sealer
  • grout haze remover

• Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix the grout to the recommended consistency.

• Apply the grout using the rubber grout float, pressing it into the joints. Then run it diagonally across the joints to get off excess grout.

• After 20 minutes, wipe the surface of the tiles with a wet sponge and remove the residue with tile haze remover.
• Avoid heavy traffic on the floor for 72 hours to let let settled and cured.

• Finally,  apply grout sealer to the joints.

Cork flooring  has managed to capture and maintain its share of the market for over a century now. This is not surprising as cork is one of the most beneficial flooring products available.

Some of its many benefits include: its warmth and comfort, sound suppression, hypoallergenic, its resilience and sustainability.

As we have been saying all throughout this series, to make sure you get everything right for your DIY flooring installation, always refer to manufacturer’s instructions. The steps listed here are general practices only and some steps may vary depending on specific cork flooring products.

Below are some basic steps in installing your very own cork flooring in DIY fashion:

1. Regardless of your flooring material of choice, the success of any DIY project rests with the proper preparation of the subfloor. Begin by removing all the baseboards, trims and mouldings. If you intend to reattach them after you’re done installing your new cork floors, be sure to remove them carefully leaving yourself reminders which belongs where by marking the spot where you removed each piece and the back of the baseboards too.

2. Also prepare doors, doorways and jambs. You might need to saw off a part of the door casing and jamb to fit the cork flooring plank together with the underlayment. In some cases, the door itself would need to be removed and trimmed.

3. Next is to remove old floor covering. If you plan to reuse the old flooring material, then again be cautious in pulling them off the subfloor. Think twice before putting them to trash, be creative and think of ways the old flooring can be repurposed. Also ensure that the subfloor is clean – free from dirt, debris, staples, nails and adhesive residue that may protrude and obscure your installation.

4. Aside from thoroughly cleaning the subfloor, this is also the right time to check if the subfloor is free from damage and structurally sound to support your installation. Should there be loose or squeaking parts of the subfloor, immediately repair it.

5. Layout the underlayment, begin in one corner of the room working through door jams and air vents.

6. Before laying out the planks, determine, where the light is coming from. Install the planks with the seams running parallel to the light to conceal their impact.

7. To layout the cork flooring planks, begin in one corner. Measure the recommended allowance for the expansion gap and insert spacers.

8. It’s best to secure the first plank with screws temporarily to prevent it from slipping and ensure that we keep our installation straight.

9. Make sure that the groove side is facing the wall.

10. In installing succeeding pieces, just tilt it in a 45º angle then slide it in until its tightly locked in place.

11. When you reach the opposite end of the wall, you might need to cut the last plank in order to make it fit. Be sure to take correct measurements before cutting.

12. To lock the last plank in the first row, you might need to use a pry bar.

13. To keep the seams from being identical and to have that staggered look on your flooring, you can use other half of the last plank from the first row. In general, it is advised that planks from different boxes are mixed so that a unique pattern will be created.

14. Succeeding planks can be secured by giving it a light tap using a hammer and a tapping block. Be sure to keep in mind the expansion gap and place spacers between planks and the wall to keep the distance equal.

15. Follow these steps and continue laying out the planks to the last row. Then secure the planks in the last row by again, using a pry bar.

16. Finish off by removing the screws on the first plank and putting in the correct moulding or transition piece.

17. Lastly re-install the baseboards and trims to cover up the expansion gap. Remember that they should be nailed to the wall and not the floor.

Cork is one of the most resilient flooring material available, with correct installation and proper care, you can keep your elegant cork flooring for generations to come.

Carpet tiles are not only cheaper compared to other flooring materials. They are also more versatile and easier to install, keep and maintain. Moreover, they give you more room for creativity as you can create simple patterns like checkerboards or add inlets, mix and match patterns and colors and all that stuff.

Comfortable and visually appealing, carpet tiles can add that needed oomph by giving instant warmth and comfort in the room or simply a splash of color. With the different colors and patterns available at a fraction of the cost of wall-to-wall carpeting, the possibilities of creating a cool and personalized space is simply limitless.

How much to buy and how much time?

In order to determine how much flooring material you’ll need, in this case how many carpet tiles. Take your tape measure and get the length and width of the rooms you plan to put the carpet tiles on. Once you have them, multiply both to get the actual square footage of the room, don’t forget to add an extra 5-10 per cent to accommodate errors and have spares for future repair or replacements.

If you’re planning to create a pattern more complicated than checkerboards, then you might consider seeking advice from your local stores as their flooring professionals can offer you with a more accurate estimate and perhaps suggest a pattern or design better suited to your needs or purpose.

What’s the time for? It’s for acclimation. Yes, just like wood-based flooring, carpet tiles also need to get acclimated to the place where it’ll be installed. At the very least, this calls for 24 hours.

Preparing Subfloors

The success of any flooring installation whether done by a DIY enthusiast or flooring experts depends largely on preparing an important component of the flooring process: the subfloor. Subfloor preparation steps vary depending on the flooring you want to install, the subfloor type and its location.

Concrete Subfloors

• If the concrete subfloor is a new one, be sure to allow sufficient time for the concrete to cure before installing carpet tiles. The recommended waiting time is about 90 days.
• For the cracks, fill them with concrete caulk. For deep, tiny cracks, use a  caulk gun to make sure all gaps and spaces are filled out.
• Be sure that the surface of the subfloor is level. Use a level bar to check if the subfloor is even and a grinder to trim high spaces. For low surfaces, you can apply a levelling compound mixed according to manufacturer’s instructions. Let it set and dry according to manufacturer’s instructions then check again to make sure that its even.
• Sweep or vacuum the floor thoroughly, removing all dirt all traces of residue from previous flooring, if this installation is an upgrade or replacement. If you have enough time to let it dry, you can also wash and wipe the subfloor to perfection.
• Depending on your carpet tile of choice, it might be necessary to use a concrete sealer on the subfloor prior to installation. Follow manufacturer’s instructions and set it to dry.

Wood Subfloor

• Since wood is more prone to damage than concrete, be sure to thoroughly examine the subfloor for damage. Any warping or sheeting might require repairs or replacements. Its also important to check flooring joists as the soundness of the subfloor’s structure will contribute to the overall success of your DIY carpet tiles installation.
• Again, check if the subfloor is level. Sand o plane as needed.
• For low spaces, use prescribed latex levelling compound and apply following manufacturer’s instructions.
• Vacuum, sweep and wipe to remove all traces of dirt and grime and scrape off any stubborn residues.

After we’ve carefully prepared the subfloor  for our DIY flooring installation, we are now ready to put in our bamboo flooring. First, make sure you get your measurements and lines straight, you can have a dry layout of the planks in a few rows before securing the same with nails or adhesive.

Some things to consider in installing bamboo flooring planks are the longest wall in the room, the direction of the light to conceal seams impact as well as windows and entryways.

Experienced DIYers can cover about 200 square feet in a day.

1. Nailed-down Installation – also referred to as secret nailing method, this is the traditional way of installing bamboo flooring, as well as other wooden flooring materials using nails or staples. Here, nails will be rammed on the tongue side of the plank to be nailed on flooring joists using a blind nailer, hence the name secret nailing since the next row will conceal the nails on the tongue of the previous ones.

The challenge here would be the identification and marking or the flooring joists. Each piece of flooring should be nailed every 8 inches and within 2 inches of each end at a 45º angle.

As it is with normal hardwood flooring installation, the first and last rows would have to be face-nailed.

Lastly, checkout manufacturer’s instructions to see if there are recommended putties to help you conceal nail holes on the floors.

2. Glued-down Installation – this process mimics that of installing tile flooring. This application is suitable for both wooden and concrete subfloors. Some adhesives are formulated to resist moisture build up eliminating the need to use vapor or moisture barriers.

Some adhesive are available ready for use while some would have to be mixed. Be sure to follow manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations when mixing the adhesive from the amount of water required to the ideal consistency of the mixture and  the appropriate trowel size.

Begin on the side of the wall with the first plank’s grove facing the wall. Make sure that there is enough ventilation in the room and don’t forget the recommended expansion gap. If curing is allowed prior to laying out the planks on top of the adhesive, be sure to do just that.

Ensure that planks are straight and correctly aligned. Immediately wipe off excess adhesive on top of the flooring using a damp cloth and walk on the flooring – every square feet of it to make sure that the planks would bond with the adhesive. Use weights as needed.

3. Floating Floor – this refers to gluing only the tongue and groove of the bamboo flooring planks installed over underlayments and other recommended cushions. This is generally recommended for radiant heat and ideal for below grade installations.

Begin on one side of the wall, groove facing the wall. Apply adhesive on the tongue and grooves successively. Lay subsequent rows of planks and use a tapping block to securely lock them. For the ends of each row, use a pry bar for a needed push.

Your floor can be as colorful as you wanted it to be by using different types of laminate flooring to your advantage. Create illusions of grandeur, enjoy its durability for years to come and save on flooring expenses now. These days laminate flooring comes in standard and even larger planks mimicking all sorts of surface from traditional hardwood for an elegant finish to rustic re-purposed planks for a more authentic appeal. They also imitate stone tile flooring surface and appearance as that of marble and granite.

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The key to choosing the right laminate floor material and other flooring needs is understanding the different types of available laminate flooring solutions. Once you know more about the materials, it will be easier to know what best suits your needs and preferences.

What are the parts of laminate floors?

To begin with, laminate floors are great alternative for ceramic and wooden floors. They are durable especially in humid weather. They are also easy to install and cost less that the real wood, marble or ceramic. Finally, laminate floors are also easier to maintain and clean.

Knowing the different types, parts and components will not only help you buy the right one but it can also greatly help prolong the life of your laminate flooring. Each laminate plank basically has the following parts:

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1. The wear layer. This is the top portion which you walk on. It is shiny because it is made of plastic resin and paper cellulose. It protects the print underneath and it is designed to receive foot fall on different levels – from very light to really heavy.

2. The pattern layer. Known as the design layer. This is where images are printed and gives character to the flooring. Because it is protected by the top or the wear layer, it does not get scratched or faded. Without this, your top layer will only be a transparent plastic.

3. The core. This is the layer that holds the floor together. Without this, the pattern and the top layers will easily get crumpled. The quality of a laminate floor depends on this part. It can be made thin or thick. Paraffin waxes are made to sip inside it to prevent water from getting in.

4. The stabilizer. It holds the floor in place with its rough surface made of melamine plastic resin. It also serves as a protection from the outside environment just like the top layer.

What are the different methods of installation of laminate floors in terms of function?

Installation and construction of laminate differ depending on the type. Every piece has its own function in installation. Laminate floors are easy to install and can be done on your own. The types of laminate floors according to construction are:

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1. Stepdown Stair Nose – these are laminated planks that are fitted on staircase steps.

2. Reducer strip. This connects the laminate tile or plant to other type of floor in your house like vinyl or ceramic.

3. End molding. They regulate the height of your carpet if you wish to add carpet over your floor.

4. T-molding. It edges the adjoining rooms. It is also serves partition when joining your laminate floor to a different type of floor in your house provided that they have the same height.

5. Quarter round. It is installed when the laminate plank reaches any wall in your house.

There are many types of laminate floors. Each of them has its own function. Know each and every type so your DIY project will look like professionally done in no time.