Author: flooring.admin

Moving on with our DIY hardwood flooring installation project the next important step is to prepare the site for installation. While the key element is keeping surfaces clean and free from dust and debris, preparation in general will depend solely on the type of subfloor where hardwood flooring planks will be installed.

 

Generally, we’ll be making preparations for nailed-down installation. Also, to make the project suitable for DIY enthusiasts, it’s best to choose prefinished hardwood flooring material so that there would be no need to coat up your brand new flooring after installation.

For maximum performance and longevity of any type of flooring, it’s very important to secure the stability of the subfloor and proper preparation. This begins with identifying the type of subfloor the property has and clearing and cleaning it up. However a quick reminder before you jump right in, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instruction for your new hardwood flooring product so that you’ll be aware if there are special instructions in preparing the subfloor, recommended underlays or vapor barrier, humidity and moisture limits.

As a universal guideline, be sure to meet these 4 criteria before installing hardwood flooring whether it’s over concrete, wood or vinyl subfloors: the subfloor must be clean, leveled, dry and sturdy.

Wooden Subfloors

Basic tools in preparing wooden subfloors are:

• sander
• long level bar
• tape measure
• shop vac
• levelling compound
• circular saw
• drill and drill bits
• screws
• hammer and pry bar
• pencil
• moisture test kit or moisture meter
• vapor barrier
• utility knife
• chalk line
• safety glasses
• work gloves
• dust mask
• knee pads

The tools list is not a complete list as the same may vary depending on the manufacturer’s instructions.

The basic steps in preparing wooden subfloors for hardwood flooring installation are:

1. First, remove old flooring material and baseboards carefully if you intend to use the materials again.

2. Check doorways and door jambs or casing for clearance. If the height of the flooring won’t fit underneath, cut the resulting height of the flooring plus the expansion gap, usually 1/16 of an inch. The resulting height simply refers to the hardwood flooring board or plank with the underlay and vapor barrier, whichever the manufacturer requires. Mark the height on the door jambs or casing with a pencil and cut out the same using a miter saw or a hand saw. If the resulting floor will not fit underneath the door, remove the door and cut of ⅛ inches for it with a circular saw.

3. If you’re planning a glue-down installation, be sure to sand the subfloor to remove debris from wax, old flooring glue residue or any type of coating that might affect traction. The same will also level down the subfloor’s surface. Otherwise, if the new flooring will be nailed down, then its okay to leave wax or coat on top of the subfloor as long as its sanded to be evened out.

4. Use the long level bar and measuring tape to check if the floor is even. Sand out elevation and humps and apply levelling compound to low spots following manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations.

5. Determine moisturization rate on the subfloor using a moisture test kit to identify if the subfloor is within the recommended limits for the product. If its not within the allowed or recommended range, be sure to consult with flooring professionals.

6. Lay down vapor barrier and underlayment. Be sure that they overlap and secure the same with a stapler. Be sure to check with the manufacturer’s instructions as some products already have pre-attached underpads.

7. Be sure that the subfloor is sturdy enough to support the hardwood flooring to be installed. Replace damaged boards and be sure to secure squeaky boards to the floor joists.

8. The new flooring should be laid perpendicular to the floor joists. Should you choose to have it installed in the opposite direction, be sure to reinforce the subfloor.

9. To make sure that our installation will remain straight, we better draw guidelines by marking the center of each wall and drawing a line across. Then from that line measure another line leaving behind the expansion gap. Next measure from that point parallel to the other end of the room to form a guideline from the starting wall.

There you have it, the wood subfloor is now ready for hardwood flooring installation.

Watch out for our next post for concrete subfloor preparation.

Hardwood flooring, there’s nothing quite like it. Visually appealing with a distinct warmth, they add value that is not easily matched. After you’ve prepped up your wooden subfloor,  we are now ready to install hardwood flooring DIY style.

Again, don’t forget to check the manufacturer’s instructions before doing anything. Be sure to have the complete tools, some of which were mentioned earlier.

Since this is a wooden subfloor, the installation will be a nailed-down one. Follow the steps below:

1. Lay the first row of flooring planks along the guidelines we made earlier leaving space for the expansion gap and with the tongue side facing the room. The guidelines will assure that we layout the planks straight all throughout. If the wall is not straight and will obscure our layout early on, be sure to cut the hardwood flooring planks before laying them down.

2. Place spacers between the plank and the walls to keep the expansion gap steady. Be sure to place them no more than one foot apart for consistency.

3. The first up to the fourth row, depending on the width of hardwood planks, will have to be face-nailed. For this process, be sure to pre-drill holes on the planks using the hardwood flooring manufacturer’s recommended bits. Be sure to drill holes every six inch along the flooring material.

   As a precaution, it would be best to wear safety glasses while you work on this project.

4. Hammer the nails on the pre-drilled holes and finish it off using the nail set. Go back on the nail holes later and apply wood putty of the same shade as the flooring material to conceal them.

5. Lock the groove second row of planks to the first row’s tongues. Secure the fit by hammering the planks using a tapping block to prevent damage.

6. Stagger the hardwood flooring planks. This simply means mixing planks from different boxes and making sure that each plank’s edges does not meet and would have at least a 6-inch distance. This does not only provide a visually pleasing characteristic to the finished flooring but also stability. You can begin on the first row by cutting the first plank and be sure to keep the other half as it can be used on the other end or on a separate row.

7. You would need to face nail rows until the pneumatic nailer can fit, this is usually on the fourth or fifth row. Be sure that the blind nailer have a protective covering underneath to protect hardwood planks from damage.

8. Continue to stagger flooring and be sure to cut them to accommodate obstructions like vents and door casings.

9. As you get near the opposite end of the room, you won’t be able to use the pneumatic nailer anymore, so the remaining rows of flooring would have to be face-nailed again. Follow the procedure we did earlier.

10. For the last row, you might need to cut the plank lengthwise to make it fit. Be sure to take the correct measurements and cut it accordingly. Use a piece of wood and a pry bar to lock lock it in place before nailing. If its less than 1 inch in length, you can simply add glue to the tongue before locking it down.

11. Remove the spacers and cut excess underlayments.

12. Attach appropriate mouldings and transitions following manufacturer’s instructions.

13. Then install baseboards to conceal the expansion gaps. Be sure to attach them to the wall and not the floor.

There you have it, DIY hardwood flooring on a wood subfloor. Be sure to keep excess planks for future repairs and be sure to care for hardwood flooring to enjoy its rewarding comfort for years and years ahead.

Hardwood flooring over concrete subfloor? Then, that was something one would hardly consider a good mix. Nowadays however, this is not only possible but has also become very popular in recent home improvement and design.

Yes, with the right preparation, cheap concrete subfloors are not just for basements anymore and it can work all throughout the house.

There are several ways to install hardwood flooring planks on a concrete subfloor but the key objective is to make sure that the subfloor is even, dry and the hardwood flooring is protected from moisture that can cause unwanted warping and damage. This will obviously require some significant amount of experience and skill as well as tools that will vary depending on the type of installation you’ll choose or which is recommended for the particular hardwood flooring you bought. Be perfectly honest if this is beyond your DIY prowess, then better leave it to professional hands.

Again, prior to making any move, its best to check the manufacturer’s instructions first. Also consider the subfloor’s condition. If its a new slab, be sure to observe the appropriate drying or curing period required.

Joists. Face nailing flooring planks to the joists is perhaps one of the oldest ways of installing hardwood flooring. The joists ensure that the flooring material is not directly touching the surface of the concrete subfloor.

Before installing the flooring planks, be sure to that the joists are in good condition and structurally sound as it will support the weight of the hardwood flooring and everything above it.

Sleepers. Another older method is something that looks like the joist installation. The illustration below best describes the process. Sleepers or 2’x4’ pressure treated slats are attached to the water-membrane protected concrete subfloor which is covered with a ¾” treated plywood where the hardwood planks would be installed. The main difference is that instead of nailing hardwood flooring planks directly over the wooden joists, they would be attached to the plywood instead allowing the woods some breathing space.

Treated Plywood. Over the last 30 years, using treated plywood has been a popular way to install hardwood flooring over concrete slab sub flooring. No, we don’t directly put the ¾” treated plywood over the bare concrete subfloor of course. We need to lay down underlayments first and ensure that the subfloor is free from moisture.

One more thing to keep in mind using the 3 methods we mentioned earlier is that they would significantly raise the height of the resulting floor. So if you are renovating a room or this is an entirely new project, you might want to check the doorways and furniture.

Glued. Here, manufacturer’s recommended adhesive is applied on the underlayment along the longest wall where the first plank will be laid down. Place the first row of hardwood flooring planks, firmly pressing each one as you go.

Continue doing so and be sure to stagger each flooring plank choosing hardwood flooring products from different boxes for a unique pattern. Apply builder’s tape on the planks so that they will be pulled tight and dry well. Doing this would also prevent them from slipping or being misplaced. Remember to allot space for the expansion gap.

Floating Floors. To demystify, floating floors are called as such for the simple reason that the hardwood flooring installed is not directly attached to the subfloor. Recent advances in manufacturing flooring boards and planks have given way to precision cutting, more accurately that the latest generation of hardwood, both engineered and solid and other wood-based flooring products like cork, bamboo and laminate have pristine click-lock technology enabling glueless locking.

In the earlier days, of course glue was applied not to the subfloor but to the tongue and groove to secure each plank. These days though, that is seen less and less.

No matter what type of installation you plan to have on your concrete subfloor, be sure to follow the basics like:

• Ensuring that the subfloor is dry with the recommended water/moisture barrier or sound proofing underlayment in place.
• Make allowance for the recommended expansion gap and lay the first row straight so that the rest of the rows will go smoothly.
• Stagger the flooring planks, allowing at least a 6 inch distance on each plank’s end to strengthen installation.
• Consider the height of the resulting floor to accommodate doorways and door casings as well as furnishings and vents.
• Weather nailed or glued down, follow recommended adhesives or distance between the nails.
• Attach transitions or mouldings as directed and keep in mind that baseboards should be attached to the walls and not the floor.

To maintain the beauty of your hardwood flooring, be sure to clean it regularly and make sure repairs are done correctly.

In preparing your concrete subfloor for DIY hardwood flooring installation, keep in mind the same categories in preparing wood subfloors still apply. Before installing hardwood flooring planks, be sure that the concrete subfloor is: clean, dry, leveled and structurally sound.

Again, it wouldn’t hurt to read manufacturer’s instructions for the flooring product before you begin preparation so that you’ll know immediately if there are specific requirements you need to achieve or comply with. At the same time, also check the local building codes in your area to avoid inconvenience.

Below is a list of common tools and equipment used in preparing concrete subfloors for hardwood flooring installation:

• hammer and pry bar
• concrete grinder
• long level and tape measure
• levelling compound and bucket
• back saw or circular saw
• moisture test kit for concrete
• vapor barrier
• pencil
• chalk line and chalk
• safety glasses
• dust mask
• hand gloves
• knee pads

Follow these steps to prepare concrete subfloor for DIY hardwood flooring installation:

1. Using the hammer and pry bar, remove baseboards to accommodate expansion gaps for the new flooring.

2. Remove old floor covering. Should you have plans to re-use the old flooring, carefully remove it to avoid damage.

3. After the old flooring has been removed also discard any old sheets or barriers and get rid of adhesive residue, dust, wax or any other debris on top of the concrete subfloor. Remember the subfloor must be clean.

4. Check clearance on door casings, door jambs and doorways. Get the resulting height by placing a hardwood plank on top of the underlayment and adding 1/16th of an inch as allowance for expansion.  If the new flooring will not fit underneath the door, take down the door and cut off about ⅛ inches off it.

5. Using the long level and tape measure, check if the subfloor is even.

6. If the floor is not leveled, use the leveling compound and trowel to fill the low spots and the grinder to even out humps on the concrete subfloor.

7. If you’re planning a glue-down application for the flooring, make sure that the concrete’s surface is free from glue, oil, sealant or other debris. If you’re worried that too much grinding would make the floor uneven, the rule of thumb is that the variance should not be more than 3/16 of an inch within a span of 10 feet.

8. Also check to amount of moisture on the subfloor to see if it is within the manufacturer’s recommended levels. If its off, get professional advice.

9. Always put a vapor barrier on concrete subfloors especially if you’re planning to install wood-based flooring products. Also check manufacturer’s instructions if an underlayment is necessary. Underlays add more stability and sound absorption, however some hardwood flooring planks already have pre-attached underpads.

10. Lastly to ensure that the planks will be laid down straight, draw guidelines by locating the center of the room and drawing an intersecting line there using the chalk line. Then draw parallel lines along from the center toward the wall and marking the point where the expansion gap begins and then drawing a line on the sides.

That should get us ready to install your hardwood flooring on a concrete subfloor.

Hardwood flooring is without a doubt one of the best improvements anyone can put in their homes and still continue to reap benefits long after one has retired. If you intend to keep an ancestral home or at least live on that particular property for the next 10 years or more, then consider this little DIY project that will add significant value to your house and even more significant value to your relationships. Hardwood flooring is both durable and enduring. It can be re-sanded and refinished, at least once for engineered hardwood, and several times for solid hardwood flooring to make it appear as if its new. This saves the homeowners both money and wood resources making it an environmentally sound choice.

The first key is of course get the right hardwood flooring material that would flatter your living space and at the same time meet your needs. Some quick tips to get the right amount of hardwood flooring you need: first, measure the length and width of the room and multiply both quantities to get the square footage and then add 10% to the resulting product to allow for errors, waste and future repair.

Keep in mind that when the hardwood flooring planks are delivered to you, you are not to install them the following day. Read on to see how to prepare the flooring material and the subfloor before installation and what skills and tools one would need to successfully execute a DIY hardwood flooring installation project.

Materials and Tools

After you’ve calculated the costs of your flooring materials, before placing your order make sure that you have enough to cover for the purchase and rental of tools and equipment for your installation project, otherwise should you opt for flooring professionals to do the job, be sure to do basic search to identify the skills and customer feedback for each to make sure you’ll get quality service as the project is costly.

However, if you think you are fairly skilled and experienced to pull this thing off, then read on to get some important insights.

Carefully read manufacturer’s instructions for more specific directions about the flooring product and be sure you comply with the building code in your respective area. Keep in mind that the instructions here are common practices only and might not meet the exact manufacturer requirements for specific flooring products.

After the flooring products have been delivered, be sure to open the boxes and carefully examine each hardwood plank for any visual or material defect. Also it is very important to leave the hardwood planks in the room where it would be installed for at least 72 hours to let it acclimate to room’s natural humidity and temperature and give it time to naturally shrink or expand prior to installation.

Lastly, consider the mode of installation best suited for the flooring product of your choice – if it is glued application or a nailed-down installation as site preparation and tools needed might slightly vary depending on the manner of installation.

Common installation tools are:

• hardwood flooring planks
• underlay and vapor barrier (depends on product requirements)
• adhesive (as recommended by manufacturer, for glued-down installation)
• spacers
• pneumatic nailer (for nailed-down installation)
• drill and drill bits
• hammer
• nail set, nails and finish nails
• wood putty (same shade as the flooring planks, for nailed-down installation)
• saws – circular, mite, table or hand saw
• prybar
• dead blow hammer and tapping block
• pencil
• tape measure
• utility knife
• dust mask and knee pads

Resilient vinyl flooring is low on maintenance and costs just a fraction of granite and marble tiles but can look just as lovely. Also compared to natural stone tiles that will definitely require the advanced skills of a professional to install, vinyl flooring installation can be one great DIY project.

Today, we continue with our DIY flooring installation series and we’ll give you some points to consider should you decide to go out, buy vinyl and make the installation a weekend project.

Let’s answer the basic questions first:

How much vinyl to buy?

Getting the exact measurements or perhaps the closest possible estimate of the size of the room you plan to install vinyl flooring on is perhaps the most important thing to accomplish in the entire project.

To do this, get the length and the width of the room then multiply the same to get the area of the room. Be sure to add at least 10 percent extra to have allowance for errors.

Measurement may slightly vary depending on the type of vinyl flooring product you’ll buy. There are different types of vinyl based flooring solutions available in the market – sheet, tile or planks.

What are the tools I need?

As it is with the quantity of the flooring products you need, tools do-it-yourselfers would need differ depending on the method of installation they intend to use.

In general however, you will need the following:

• carpenter’s square
• gloves
• masking tape
• measuring tape
• pencil or felt-tipped pen
• shears or snips
• utility knife

There are 3 ways of installing vinyl flooring (depending of course on the type of vinyl flooring you’ll use):

1. Felt-Backed Vinyl Sheet – in this type of installation, vinyl flooring is installed either with spread adhesive, completely gluing it to the subfloor or by perimeter adhesive, securing the vinyl around the perimeter and seams. This type of installation requires the following tools:

• 100-pound roller/rolling pin
• floor pattern or craft paper
• full spread adhesive (as recommended by manufacturer)
• notched trowel
• pair of scissors
• seam sealer kit
• staple gun

2. Vinyl Flooring Tiles and Planks – these can be installed in different ways: either secured to a floor with pre-applied adhesive (peel-and-stick) or tab, spray or also full spread adhesive. These types are normally installed with the following tools:

• chalk line
• manufacturer recommended adhesive (spray, full spread, tabs)
• notched trowel
• vinyl tile/plank cutter

3. Fiberglass Vinyl Sheet – installed as a loose lay or floating floor. It can also be installed semi-loose lay – secured only in specific points or full spread. Tools and materials needed to install this type of vinyl are:

• acrylic double-sided tape or pressure sensitive adhesive
• floor pattern or craft paper
• notched trowel or paint roller
• scissors

How to prepare the subfloors?

1. Remove any furnishings in the room, including floor trim mouldings or baseboards if any. Carefully remove them using a pry bar if you plan to re-install them later on.

2. If you need to repair or lay down a subfloor-graded plywood or OSB board as subfloor aside from the recommended underlayment, be sure to remove and trim door(s), door jambs and casings to fit the flooring’s height adjustment.

3. Make sure floor joists are sturdy. Repair and reinforce when needed.

4. Also ensure that the subfloor’s surface is even.

5. Check the moisture levels in the room and see if it is within the manufacturer’s recommended range. If not, be sure to see professional advice before proceeding with the project.

6. Remove old flooring and clean the subfloor thoroughly. Make sure no traces of adhesive, wax, nails or dirt is left as this can affect the quality of our vinyl flooring.

7. Let the vinyl flooring acclimate in the room. See manufacturer’s recommendations.

8. Read manufacturer’s instructions and local building codes before starting with the project.

Given the current economic difficulties experienced all around the globe, it’s only wise that we take all the necessary steps to save on everything and anything we can save on. This is of course without compromising the quality of the product or service we want to get. The same is true with flooring.

In an earlier series of posts we gave tips on how to buy the perfect flooring materials that’ll meet your professional or domestic needs, here we give you simple instructions and general practices in doing the installation yourself.

Whatever flooring product you choose, whether its laminate flooring, hardwood, porcelain and ceramic tiles, natural stones like granite, slate or marble, carpet tiles or other environmentally sound ones like glass, linoleum, bamboo or cork the most important thing is to make sure that the subfloor is prepared, protected from moisture and complete with the appropriate underlay or vapor barriers, recommended by the manufacturers of your product of choice.

How to prepare the subfloor and protect the backside of your flooring will vary depending on the product you intend to use as well as the type of installation recommended for said products.

Below are the basics in do it yourself installation of different flooring materials:

• DIY Laminate Flooring Installation
• DIY Hardwood Flooring Installation on Wood Subfloor
• DIY Hardwood Flooring Installation on Concrete Subfloor
• DIY Flooring Installation: Ceramic and Porcelain Tile
• DIY Cork Flooring Installation
• DIY Bamboo Flooring Installation
• DIY Vinyl Flooring Installation
• DIY Linoleum Flooring Installation

We have also included some basic steps in preparing the subfloor for different types of installation:

• DIY Flooring Installation: Laminate Flooring Prep
• DIY Hardwood Flooring Installation Wood Subfloor Preparation
• DIY Hardwood Flooring Installation Concrete Subfloor Preparation
• DIY Flooring Installation: Preparing for Ceramic & Porcelain Tiles
• DIY Flooring Installation: Bamboo Flooring Prep
• DIY Flooring Installation: Vinyl Flooring Essentials
• DIY Flooring Installation: Linoleum Prep
• DIY Carpet Tiles Flooring Installation Prep

We hope you find these resources helpful for your DIY flooring projects.

Recommended for high traffic areas, ceramic and porcelain tile flooring is a great addition to your home. An excellent flooring material since they handle moisture well, durable and also comes in various styles, sizes and colors that would complement, highlight and accentuate any place in your property.

Planning to install ceramic or porcelain tiles DIY? Read these basic steps in preparing for installation. Keep in mind this requires some skills and certain tools so better think twice if you’re really gonna do it or leave it to the more trained hands of flooring professionals.

Speaking of tools, here are the ones needed in preparing the subfloor:

• cement backerboard (underlayment)
• polymer modified thin-set mortar
• notched trowel
• galvanized roofing nails or corrosion resistant screws
• drill and drill bits
• saw
• alkali-resistant cement board seam tape
• utility knife
• tape measure
• pencil
• chalk line and square
• knee pads, gloves and safety glasses
• patch and leveler
• tile spacers
• ceramic or porcelain flooring tiles

So how many ceramic or laminate flooring tiles do you need? To get an estimate measure the length and width of the room where you plan to install the flooring tiles multiply both to get the square footage you need. Finally, add 10-20 per cent more to cover for mistakes and replacements. Some stores have calculators included in their websites.

Remember these criteria that should be met before porcelain or ceramic tile flooring is installed: the subfloor should be 1) uniform and level; 2) in appropriate thickness; and 3) in overall good condition. Before proceeding with the preparation, it won’t hurt to check out the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you take all the necessary steps. Also check out the building codes in your area to avoid any inconvenience.

Next, checkout your subfloor. some materials, like vinyl are suitable for tile installation others however would have to be removed. Baseboards and trips would also need to be removed. Put the cement backerboard and a piece of tile against the door casing and mark their height. Clear out that space to make sure the flooring would fit. Be sure to cut the door too.

Another thing to consider is the resulting height of the flooring after installation. This will be crucial if you are planning to install the tile in the bathroom as the added elevation increases the chances of water spilling out. Keep in mind the height of furniture and other stuff as it is possible that the resulting floor will be more or less an inch higher.

Check if the subfloor is level before laying down the backerboards to make sure tiles are protected from unnecessary pressure. Use the patch and leveler following product directions. Be sure to allow the right time for the leveling compound to cure. Another popular technique used to ensure that the subfloor is level is by screeding. This application was initially used for commercial installations but are now also widely used in homes. Here, when there are high spots, the rest of the flooring is then raised to make it level and even.

When the subfloor is level, we are now ready to install our backerboards that will serve as a foundation for our ceramic or porcelain tile flooring. Apply the thin-set mortar on the subfloor, make sure to spread them in sections and its best to begin doing so in a corner. Lay down the backerboard and secure it in place with using corrosion resistant screws.

If you need to cut the board, simply score it with the utility knife and snap it. Be sure to cut it on the backside after it snaps to make sure you don’t damage the mesh.

Continue with the thin-set application and backerboard layout until you have covered the entire room.

Cover the joints with cement board seam tape and apply mortar.

The next step is to mark our guidelines to ensure that the layout is square all throughout. To do this, mark the center of the 2 opposing walls in the room and snap a chalk line. Do the same for the adjacent walls to form a cross. Check if their intersection is square. This would be sufficient if the room is small. You can now layout the tiles, following the guidelines to see how they would fit, using tile spaces in between to make sure the distance is even. Don’t forget to leave the recommended expansion gap beside walls and cabinets. This is known as the dry layout.

If the dry layout would leave a distance less than half the tile’s with at the end on one wall, move the layout by first adjusting the guidelines and leaving equal distance on each side.

For larger areas, it is ideal to draw a grid of 3-foot squares across the room to make sure the layout will be even all throughout. Working in smaller section will make it more accurate and easier to make adjustments when needed.

With the correct guidelines and a dry layout, we were able to see how the installation would look like. We are now ready to install the ceramic or porcelain tile flooring

Linoleum flooring has made a comeback! Contrary to popular belief that they belong to some rundown buildings and establishments no longer used or homes that have not been lived in in ages, with the rise of consciousness for more environmentally sound flooring products, linoleum has received some well-deserved and overdue attention it has not seen in recent years.

As it is with other flooring process, success depends on subfloor preparation and choosing the right flooring material. As we’ve mentioned earlier, linoleum has evolved into something not only trendier but also in form. We still have the classic linoleum sheets and the newer generation of linoleum tiles and floating ones.

It can be argued that linoleum is perhaps the greenest flooring product available in the market to date. It is manufactured from purely natural materials invented in the 1940s. These same materials and processes are still used today.

To continue with our DIY flooring installation, the next step is to identify the manner to install your new flooring. This of course will vary depending on the type of linoleum flooring you’d use. Sheet and linoleum tiles are usually installed using spread or full adhesive while floating linoleum normally uses the common click and lock technology.

The tools needed will also depend on the type of installation the manufacturers recommend for different linoleum flooring products. Commonly used for installing linoleum sheets are:

• Carpenter’s square

• Gloves

• Masking tape

• Measuring tape

• Half–moon knife and guide plate

• Pencil and/or felt–tipped pen

• Respirator or mask

• Scribers, snips and/or shears

• Straight edge

• Utility knife, edge trimmer and/or trimming knives (under, over, straight)

While linoleum tile installation would require the following:

• 100 lb roller and/or rolling pin

• Chalk line

• Floor pattern or craft paper

• Full–spread adhesive

• Notched trowel

• Scissors

• Seam–sealer kit or seam welder

• Staple gun

Finally, click and lock linoleum flooring would require the use of the following tools:

• Hammer

• Handsaw

• Keyhole, jig or power saw

• Tapping block

• Tension iron or pry bar

• Wedges

Subfloor Preparation

Before proceeding with site preparation, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you are aware of any special steps you need to take before installation. Also check building codes before scratching the surface of your old flooring.

• Remove all furniture and equipment before the installation. If you’ll be using wood subfloors or an underlayment is required, make sure to account for the ending thickness of the new floor and be sure to trim door, door casings and door jambs.

• You also need to remove wall trims and mouldings you can either reuse or discard them but you need them out of the way in order to properly install the new flooring.
• Remove old floor covering. If you plan on reusing the old flooring material, then carefully remove them and keep damage to a minimum.
• After removing the old flooring, thoroughly clean the subfloor and ensure that it is structurally sound, level and free from water or moisture.
• Some products might require installing plywood for underlayment, be sure to get an underlayment-grade plywood or a material specifically recommended for the product.
• If you’ll be installing the linoleum over concrete subfloor, carefully follow manufacturer’s directions on whether or not the moisture in the room is appropriate with the product you have and what to do to fix it if its not.
• The same is true for below-grade installation, this might require laying down a moisture barrier.
• Leveling concrete floors might require using grinders and a leveling compound, be sure to read and follow manufacturer’s instructions when using them.
• Lastly, always use safety and protective gear especially when handling tools and equipment.

We’ve already written some posts on laminate flooring – what they are, how to choose the perfect laminates, gave a buying guide as well as how to clean and handle stains in them.

You may think that you’ve got everything you need and know absolutely everything you need to know about them and you’re probably about to go online or hit the nearest retailer in your area to get boxes and boxes of your perfect laminate flooring of choice…but you thought of something and stopped on your tracks: you realized you don’t know anyone who can install it and you’re not sure if you can do it.

Well we today, we give you the basics on how to install laminate flooring.

The most important thing to do before you begin is to make sure you have all the materials and tools you need. Common tools are:

• saw (miter and table saw);
• pencil
• safety glasses/goggles
• knee pads
• flooring installation kit (with pull bar and spacers)
• hammer
• tapping bar
• tape measure
• moisture barrier/vapor layer (especially for concrete subfloors)
• adhesive (depends on laminate flooring brand)
• underpads (depends on the brand as some have pre-attached ones)
• accessories (moldings, trims, stair noses)
• laminate flooring boards (with 5-10% allowance for waste, replacement or repairs in the future)

The next step is also critical. No matter what brand, with or without installation experience, one should always, always read the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

The succeeding steps are general processes observed and might slightly vary depending on the type of laminate flooring you are using and the specific set of instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Preparation

Site preparation. First remove the old flooring and thoroughly clean the surface to get rid of unnecessary debris, dirt and all other residue from the previous flooring product.

Carefully examine the area and check for needed repairs. Make sure that the subfloor’s surface is leveled by using a standard straight edge laser. Should there be uneven surfaces then simply apply thinset mortar to fill it. Its available in most hardware stores.

Don’t forget to measure the resulting flooring and make the necessary adjustments with your doors, trimmings, stairs and other transitions.

Consider also the subfloor material. For wood surfaces, as long as the subfloor is in good condition and shows no sign of damage – like decay or cupping, then you can go right ahead and put the laminate flooring in. The case is different with concrete though.

Moisture or vapor barriers are necessary for concrete subfloors to prevent moisture from seeping in from beneath which might cause damage to the flooring.

Also check the laminate flooring. Some products already have pre-attached underpads while others might require you to lay a separate sheet. Underpads provide a noise reduction for laminate flooring.

If you’re doing a major home makeover then ensure that all other jobs like carpentry and painting are all done before installing the laminate flooring to make sure that the surface are protected from unwanted scratches and stains. What’s the point of having a new floor when it’ll be less than perfect even before you get the chance to enjoy it?

Product Preparation. This is rather pretty simple. First make sure to examine each board or plank for any damage that might affect installation. Also scrutinize tongues and grooves to make sure they are whole and free from chips that could make locking them together hard or would leave seams visible or else gaps.

After checking, carefully arrange the laminate flooring on the room where it’ll be installed to allow it to acclimate. Acclimation simply means letting the product adapt to the temperature in the room thereby letting it expand or contract naturally for at least 72 hours.

There you have it, the initial steps in preparing for a DIY laminate flooring installation. Watch out for part 2 for the step by step process and more tips.